Me,,, I'd test cable grounding for draw.
Simply having the meter viewable unless you have a helper that can monitor the screen.. That way, you can focus on and remove the fuses one at a time and watch for the drop. If set to mA you'll be able to monitor for minor/moderate parasitic draws. If excessive, then you would be able to view the draw on a higher scale. You'll get a circuit drop reading,, just easier to see and understand the current readings if in the correct range/s. If you suspect an excessive draw, then set it for the 10 amp reading and test the full range of fuses. If a more minor draw is detected from the meter set the range for low scale for a detailed reading.

With the fuse removed, and the meters leads now 'more or less' the fuse , not sure what that would do to the meters internal protections. More so, since you seemed to have or reported a fuse that was over temp.

It looks like your meters fuses protect low scale testing loads up to 500mA (1/2 amp) and the other fuse up to 10 amp.

The meters sockets are labeled for correct lead insertion for the values or range you'd want to test for.

 

Update. I got a new ground wire and hooked it to the starter thingy maggic bolt. I still this time could watch the battery drain as it was on my meter! That had not happened before! Bought a new mastercraft battery, 65 series 850 ca. Hooked it up, did the mA test using the meter, pulled each fuse, no drain found... Battery was at 12.68 new and just installed. 5hours later, now, still holding same charge of 12.68. So I think the battery was just draining itself because it was 38 months old and just needed to be changed out. Initially it would charge to 12.76, then start draining slowly. Making me think I had a parasitic drain. Then it started draining fast, as I could see it steadily drain down, on my voltage meter. I will know in the morning when I’m gonna check battery voltage again. I will update. So maybe in this case it was the battery. It wasn’t until after a few days that I noticed, very slow, on my meter, that battery voltage just kept going down. It was not doing that initially. Thank u hayapower for all ur guidance, instructions, and advice!!!! For real. People like myself really appreciate ur efforts!! All I want is for my truck to run. So do my dogs!

I’m 99% sure buying a new ground wire had nothing to do with it but I just wanted to replace it as u could tell it was old and I hooked it up closer to the starter. The ground wire initially was run far away from the starter and to the engine block.

 

Hope the concern is gone, but the fuse you said was hot to the touch, and the cooked inertia connector still would seem relevant. Keep us updated..

 

Good evening. Battery did not have any drain after 18 hours of sitting in the truck. Started right up and Truck ran good. That fuse has not been hot after I originally mentioned it. I keep touching it. It runs the door locks and dome lights etc.
I agree, bc it did get hot several times even w brand new fuse, there is a problem there. Do I just check the wire and see where it goes and check it for breaks; starting at the back of the interior fuse box?

 

I can look up the fuse number and location, but if you have that info. it would be helpful to make 'sure' we're all on the same page.
The fuse itself wouldn't be cause for high temp, but with the fuse info I can look and see all that the fuse protects, meaning all system hardware on that fuse.
I seen lots of melted, damaged connectors but never the inertia. Not that it can't happen. Did you fix or correct that as well?

 

Have not had a chance to check the fuse. But I will and give u its info. Trying to finish yard work as the Florida heat is pretty much here