Working on 83 F150. Need to replace clutch. Hoping someone can refer me to a posting or issue some helpful hints. Have not replaced a clutch before. Have a Chilton, air tools and hand tools. Trying to save $7-800 on an old truck.Thanks

 

Might be able to offer a little.
Does the truck have floor shift or column shift?
If column shift only need to disconnect rods on side of trans, if floor shift , will need to remove floor over trans to be able to remove trans shift tower if necessary not hard just different.
In either case drive shaft needs to come down and it is important to keep driveline intact so parts stay in line to avoid phasing problems. Marking them helps in case they get loose on you.
If possible try to get a dummy pilot shaft to align the clutch disc in center when tightening clutch pressure plate assy. Makes trans installation a lot easier. Important to replace clutch release bearing at the same time when replacing clutch assy.

Safety note,,,,,,, the dust from clutch facings is not good to breathe or get on your clothes that may wind up in the family washing machine. Any dust should be removed with a wet rag and discarded carefully.

 

It is floor shift so I will have to do that. Are there any seals or gaskets I should replace while I have it apart. The kit I have has both bearing along with the disc, pressure plate and the alignment tool. Also forgot to mention it is a 4x4 so I have that to deal with as well. Not sure what you mean by "keeping drive line intact". Do I have to mark any parts to make sure to put them in as they were? Will I have access to the rear main seal while this is apart. Want to make sure I have everything because I will be left afoot until I finish! Thanks for the quick reply.

 

If there was no particular vibration problem, it would be a wise move to try to install the drivelines the way they were removed and marking relationships of slip joint to driveshaft so you would not create any problems there. You will need a good floor jack to handle the transfer case, they are not light. If there were no leaks before removal with careful work there should be no leaks when done. If the bolts holding the floorboard section haven't been removed for a long time they could require some soaking with penetrant making removal a little easier, pays to apply some never seize to them or grease on assembly for the next time removal may be required.
Just go slow and take your time to do it right and you should have no problem.
If the u joints were never replaced, that could come up as an unexpected problem.
If you have a good vise that will open wide enough to accept a driveline yoke having the u joints handy can save some time if necessary. Sometimes if purchased locally they will allow you to return them if not needed. Replacing the clutch assy is quick, the time is soaked up removing and installing everything else. From the sound of it , you should be OK.!

If your manual didn't state it, tightening the pressure plate should be done evenly , a little each time on each bolt.

 

I will keep those things in mind when I work on this. May be back on this if I run into any snags and will try to remember to post back even if I don't
Thanks for you insights.

 

Okay I do need some help or advice on this project. More work than I ever thought. Little bit stuck on the tranny cross member. There are ten bolts to remove and I have 6 out but the last 4 are nearly impossible. They are on the top side of the I beam frame and hard to get to. Can barely get socket in there and then I need a breaker with a cheater pipe just to get them to break. I cannot get the socket and breaker to rotate far enough to make a second turn on the nut. Even with a 1/2 inch ratchet I cannot get a second turn. Probably simple but I am baffled. What can I try that I have not?

 

When I had a problem with removing bolts such as you describe, sometimes a pair of vise grips on one part to keep it from turning or until loose and a box wrench with another long box wrench connected to the open end of the box wrench on the stuck part and the extra length gave me addl leverage and also fit over the bolt or nut in the tight spot. Some situations require some addl tools that you may not have so you do what you have to , to get them off. If they are pretty rusted you may need to soak them a while and have a cup of coffee or two !

 

My problem is not so much the torque needed, although it is a bitch they turn hard all the way off, but the location inside the I beam. Just very difficult to get a turn on the nut. I was wondering if there is some trick to getting the cross member out without taking the gusset completely off.

 

Usually a 6 point semi deep well swivel socket (1/2” drive) and decent extension would gain enough angle and beef to get them loose. Clamping the top bolt head with vise grips or a box wrench curbed in place left both hands to use the ratchet. Air impact usually makes short order getting them loose and leaves a second hand to hold the top from spinning

If you can get the top bolts loose enough, the lower gusset bolts removed, and the cross member end bolts out, with the tail shaft/rear mount lifted high enough the cross member should clear when angled and the gusset end lifted so the member can pass by...

 

I used all your suggestions plus a few MacGiver tools and now I am at a point that the tranny is ready to be pulled except for the shift lever inside the cab. I can find no articles or info on removing this thing. I have removed the floor pan cover but I can see no way to take this off. Chilton is no help it just say just says remove it. All your help has got me this far and now I am stumped.