The T bearings always seem to be the sticking point.
When moving the trans into position,, the input shaft needs to stay as “dead centered and correct angled” as possible within the bellhousings round opening where the trans front bearing yoke seats. Floor jack installs tend to be wobbly and extra care for correct alignment is needed. Doesn’t take much off center movement to cause the bearing to come off.

Some of the older T bearings just slid loose on the arm, in those cases I would either use the stock clutch push rod agjusted/extended or install a temp rod or spring to push the arm and bearing lightly against the pressure plates fingers. Not too tight so it can slide a bit to allow spline alignment/engagement as well as the T bearing to slip onto the trans yoke, but kiss the pressure plate cover so the bearing has some tension support as does the arm...

 

Been too long since I posted. Had to have major back surgery in the middle of this. Since I will probably be laid up for 6-8 weeks I may have to call friends in to finish. I have clutch in and tranny lined up, just needs to be pushed forward and bolted in. I say just but that is where I stalled since posting last time. But very close and with your help the rest should go well. I would never attempt this without a transmission jack at least with this clutch set up as I think it would be a miracle to accomplish with just a floor jack. The only reason I even attempted this is because I had a local well known garage replace the clutch less than 10,000 miles ago. The original clutch lasted well over 100,000 miles. It had been 3-4 years ago but this truck is in a two driver household with 3 vehicles and had been garaged for most of that time. When I took the truck back they wanted $700 to fix telling me this included a $100 discount. Purchased this truck new, would you believe it, in 83 and have done all body, maintenance and mechanical work myself until their clutch work. I know it is really old school but my farther always told me "if you want something done right do it yourself". 75 years old and still, well almost, doing it myself. Thanks for all your help

 

Hope you are recovering and feeling better. If we can , glad to be of any help, don't hesitate to ask. Have a speedy recovery and best wishes for an enjoyable holiday and better Happy New Year.

 

Had a feeling I would be back for more help. Mostly recovered from back surgery and truck has been sitting on jack stands since December. Friends help never came through so I am back attempting to get this done. Yesterday I had the tranny about one inch from seating. Could not get it to go any further. Tried turning engine a little bit at a time and still no luck. Pulled tranny back out and the TO bearing dropped into bottom of bell housing! Spring fingers on shift fork do not hold much. Any way thoughts - attach bell housing to tranny and try that?? . That way I do not have to worry about the TO bearing although I feel that it was in place my last attempt. May try a suggestion I saw on an other post about using 4 longer bolts on bell housing for better alignment. Other than that any other thoughts on getting this to seat.

 

Doesn’t take much to have the T bearing come off..
Guide pins are a good bet if your using a floor jack since keeping the trans at the correct height/angle is dicey. Even with a tranny jack it doesn’t take large movements or rolling to loose the bearing..
Not sure what you used for a clutch pilot tool, plastic unit included in the kit, or universal, but sounds like the trans went all the into the disc splines and stopped at the pilot bearing.

I wouldn’t attemp the trans and bellhousing install, but if the trans is resting and solidly supported on guide pins, and still won’t go in the last 1” into the pilot bearing, have a helper push the clutch in slightly and generally it’ll slide the rest of the way in...

 

Thanks, I think I will try the four bolt approach I think then there should be no ? about proper alignment. Not sure I understand "pushing in the clutch" when the clutch adjustment rod/bolt has not been set up and I do not see how it can be with out the tranny in place. Or am I missing something?

 

The clutch release arm/pivot is in the bell housing, so when the T/bearing has started and slipped on to the transmissions front yoke ‘and’ the trans input shaft is well into the clutch disc splines,, the T/bearing isn’t at much risk of coming off the arm.
If the clutch rod assembly is loosely set or asssembled into the release arm, a light push will move the arm slightly for the disc to move just enough to center itself if the pilot bearing/clutch is/wasn’t in direct alignment to start. If the clutch linkage isn’t set up, some force added to arms end will generally release enough pressure plate force for the clutch disc to slip for a final push forward on the install...

 

Do not know why your latest response about T/bearing is not here? Anyway what you say makes good sense. Will keep that in mind when I get back to this. Still having back problems even after surgery. Got cortisone injection today so I will be laid up again for a while. Thanks for the info. I will post again when able to get back to work.

 

I think you two gents are doing a fine job.
One pleasant thought , not to worry, nobody else will get it done on you!
Not knowing what kind of surface and type jack you are using it on, one thing is critical and that is the trans must be on the same angle as the flywheel and if not , the darn thing just will not go together ! While recuperating, you may get some ideas as to how to insure that. It will be time well spent. Trans work is a back breaking job no matter how you do it, so why not play it safe and take the extra time to recuperate fully, if there is such a thing, and a slow speed assembly will be hopefully easier and and less damaging to you and if the clutch doesn't work out as desired, the second time around is usually easier especially if somebody else has to do it !! Hang in there and appreciate if you keep us informed , Thanks.

 

I am working with a tranny jack and have an air compressor. My last attempt, as I wrote earlier, got within one inch and stopped. And as suggested earlier I must have not been aligned enough to get the shaft into the pilot bearing.. I used two longer centering bolts on the bottom of the bell housing. On my next attempt I am going to use 4 bolts. Going to go to Ace Hardware and see if I can get 2 fully threaded bolts that I can leave in and put nuts and lock washers on, or not. What do you think? I think 4 will give me good alignment in all directions (up, down, left, right,) or at least a better chance. But you are right the truck is not going any where and taking a chance on screwing my back again is not worth it. Thanks for your thoughts and input. Will post back as soon as I can. Appreciate all your help.