Ford F-150 The entry level full size truck from Ford, one of America's best selling for decades.

still trying 92 F150

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  #21  
Old 03-16-2012, 05:07 PM
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I still have the truck but, I have a question for how can one clear the codes and see if engine will start and run without a scanner?
 
  #22  
Old 03-17-2012, 03:40 AM
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You have two threads going. I will try to answer your questions on this thread only.
On this year vehicle, when you disconnect the battery cable , you clear all codes.

You need to have spark & fuel and both of those have to be in the right place at the right time. Are you sure you have the right marks on the crank and cam gear lined up correctly when you changed the timing chain?
Which marks did you use, some have dots or a triangle mark. Did you ever check if the rotor was pointing to the right plug wire when #1 piston was at the top of the compression stroke? There are definite steps that have to be done or your just spinning your wheels.
 
  #23  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:15 PM
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You know, the reason I went into fuel injection was that my father's G. Marq wouldn't start just the same way. Turned out the TPS was shorted, and would only start if gas was poured down the throttle body; it would then start and run fine.
One thing Fords do is very, very weird things that defy logic when VREF shorts out. I would suggest a trial here. May or may not work, but worth a try.
Whenever faced with something like this that drives you to drink, then you have to find something that affects the problem, then see what happens.
I would suggest making EEC dumb. Unplug all the "unnessecary" sensors that are on the engine that it DOESN'T need to run. This includes the o2 sensor, air bypass/direction and egr solenoids, tps, etc. About all these need to run is the map and iac and distributor. It'll set a ton of codes, but it may help a lot.
One other thing; these bodies used o2 wiring to and from the pcm that were wrapped up with the pos. battery cable. Over time, with (sometimes even good) maintanance, the batt. cables would 'wick' bat. acid into the cable, corrode it, and the o2 wires with it, which would short out the o2 signal to the pcm, which would do many, many odd things like this. Always with just about any car, verify the battery cables are clean and tight. You never know
 
  #24  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:18 PM
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And Hanky, DON'T laugh at this. I know it sounds like a trip down memory lane, and to an extent it is. But you just never know where inspiration comes from.
If you can change a problem that falls through the cracks, sometimes you can stumble onto something.
 
  #25  
Old 03-17-2012, 01:27 PM
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Mark, thank you for helping out here. And don't worry about me laughing , I've stepped in it so many times I'm still cleaning it out from between my toes!!
 
  #26  
Old 03-17-2012, 04:56 PM
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nice sense of humor you two that made me laugh. Greasemark you're gonna have to tell me what all those letters are so that I can understand what they mean. Hanky, all the marks were are all lined up and the bug was at no. 1 tower.
 
  #27  
Old 03-17-2012, 05:00 PM
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Please understand that I'm not employed by a Ford dealership therefore I don't have access to alot of specialty tools and I don't have alotta patients for anything.
 
  #28  
Old 03-17-2012, 06:44 PM
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For a guy with no patience you sure hung in there a while. Anyway what I would try is to see if the engine will pick up RPM if you spray some , carb and choke cleaner or ether in the intake. Choke cleaner is preferred because it doesn't do the damage ether can do. If the engine RPM picks up, then I would suspect as greasemark stated you have a huge vacuum leak or a fuel system delivery problem. And a fuel delivery problem could be caused by a lot of things where you may need to do again as greasemark stated and start disconnecting sensors. So you might as well water the patience plant because this could take a while and who knows we could get lucky and hit the problem early in the search.
 
  #29  
Old 03-17-2012, 07:33 PM
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Hello Hanky and Greasemark, I disconnected all sensors except the map and o2 'cause the plug for 02 is melted together it will run longer but the throttle has to be wide open and it just idles what's next? I also replaced the throttle body assy. cause I can't afford to buy all new parts that helped it a little bit.
 
  #30  
Old 03-17-2012, 07:45 PM
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by the way the only reason I ain't got rid of it yet is because 1st I really love this thing the way it rides and drives when right 2nd they ain't come to repo it yet.
 


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