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Automatic Transmission shifter broken....

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  #11  
Old 09-07-2011, 08:02 PM
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I have a 2001 Ford Explorer and I broke mine in the same place. Would it be the same procedure as (bigfeather) explained how to do it?
 
  #12  
Old 10-08-2011, 12:57 PM
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I have 2000 ranger & it appears my shift tube has also broken. Is the replacement expensive?? Does it come from a ford dealer and in a timely manner?? Or should I just get a used steering column?
 
  #13  
Old 10-08-2011, 01:25 PM
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Don't know what the price is now , but not that bed.
Don't be surprised if the dealer has one on the shelf. Common problem.
If you go through the trouble to remove the column, why not just put the new piece into yours, then you know it's new.
 
  #14  
Old 10-09-2011, 01:32 PM
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Default shift tube

I know, it's not a good idea to replace with used. Since this seems to be a popular problem. thanks to all, Marcus
 
  #15  
Old 10-12-2011, 01:42 AM
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interesting.. have the similar problem here
 
  #16  
Old 12-13-2011, 05:45 PM
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Thanks for posting. I too had problems shifting the lever for the auto transmission on my 95 F-250 with tilt steering. It finally ended up stuck in reverse and my wife and I diagnosed the problem by finding this forum! It turned out the shift tube was broken in two and the plunger inside was snapped in half. Here's how I removed it: I removed the two piece steering column cover. (Upper and lower covers).The tilt steering handle just screws out. I had to remove the ignition lock cylinder to remove the upper steering column cover->I removed the grounds from batteries, inserted key, turned to 'on' and depressed the pin located on cylinder. Lock cylinder slides out (but not easily). I then removed the lower dash cover and upper dash cover (hint: Headlights/Panel dimmer switch simply pulls off.) I disconnected the slim wire attached to the shifter tube-the other ends goes to the gear indicator on the dash. (Ancient technology.) The shift handle was disconnected from the shifter tube at this point-It was held in by a pin which popped out.
There were four 1/2" nuts supporting the steering column. I removed these and lowered the steering wheel to the seat where it was supported. The shift tube is held on by six screws. Four of these screws clamp the tube in place. Two of the screws secure the rear of the tube. All six screws had large 'star' type heads. I was able to use a battery powered Makita driver to pull off the rear screws-It was awkward but doable.
Parts are due in a day or two. The tube was $41.00, the plunger $17.00 and two bushings totaled $14.00 plus shipping and sales tax. I will post as to how the installation goes. Thanks again. Jeff
 

Last edited by Jeff_Russ; 12-14-2011 at 09:03 PM.
  #17  
Old 12-14-2011, 08:44 PM
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Default The installation

Parts arrived in less than a day. They were in stock which tells you something. I installed the plunger in the tube. This might be a good point to apply a small quantity of grease. I reinstalled the shift handle. Then to get the tube installed I had to remove a horseshoe-shaped bracket. I installed the two rear screws for the tube first. This was awkward. I put the new bushings on at this point and then the two retaining clamps. Then I reinstalled the horseshoe shaped bracket. I secured the steering column with the four 1/2" nuts. The small wire goes on next: It hooks on to the shifter tube, the other end connects to the gear indicator on the dash.
The top dash cover went on next-There was two harness clips I had to refasten. The headlight/dimmer switch was installed. Then I stuck the lower dash cover on. It took only two screws.
The upper steering column cover went on. This was a bit tricky because it is a tight fit. Then I installed the ignition lock cylinder. It just slips in with the key in it. Finally the lower column cover went back on and then I screwed it in. I had four screws for this task. Three went in through the bottom cover and one screw goes sideways in the right rear of the bottom column cover. Then I screwed the tilt steering handle in.
Finally I reconected the batteries. I had actually tested the repair at a much earlier point. (reconnected batteries and made sure everything was in order-Remember the shift lever locks the key in and must be pushed forward with the transmission in park to remove the key.)
Jeff
PS There seems to be some free play in the shifter lever so maybe this weekend I'll take it apart again and see what's going on. I may have left out a spring.
 

Last edited by Jeff_Russ; 12-16-2011 at 07:43 PM.
  #18  
Old 12-14-2011, 09:26 PM
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Thanx for those pics-Helped me a lot. Jeff
 
  #19  
Old 09-03-2012, 08:11 AM
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Default Shift lever tube replacemant

Yes, it was a broken shift lever tube. The previous posts and pictures were most helpful. However, on my 92 F-150 XLT Lariat with the electronic controled 4 speed automatic, the 4 nuts holding the steering column in place were 13 mm and the 8 trox screws took a T30 bit to loosen Once loose, was able to remove by hand. The shift lever is held in the tube by a drive pin. Remove by tapping on the longest side sticking out. As this is Labor Day weekend, will be Tuesday before I can get replacement parts or order them (who knows) from my Ford Dealer. Too, shall pick up some semi-permanent LocTite and a small tube of marine grease. Was thinking of replacing the ignition switch too as the steering column is resting on the seat. And fixing the in dash shift lever indicator which broke a 2nd time over ten years ago. The biggest problem I encountered was sitting in the driver's seat with my head where my feet should have been. There has to be an easier way.
 
  #20  
Old 09-03-2012, 08:41 AM
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is the shifting cable broke ? on the tip of the shifter there is a tip and the tip might have broken off ! you might have to pull the steering wheel and the turn signal switch to get down to the shifter ! there should be a pin that holds the shifter in place, drive the pin out and pull the shifter handle out !
 


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