Cost me $53 in parts. Part Numbers: 1f1z7212aa and f3tz7l27a8. Stearing back together and it works. Hint: If you cannot lock the steering column, maybe you got a problem. The shift failed on Friday and have it back together and working OK on Tuesday. Labor Day weekend you know. Shift cable from shifter to transmission was OK. In 20/20 hindsight, took off way to many dash parts. Remove only lower dash cover and stuff around ignition switch and once steering column is lowered. And the indicator thing, I just left unhooked. Don't need it after 20 years of driving this truck with out it working. Too, the new part looks much better than the original one.

 

Hi

I am new to this forum and new to having a94 Ford Taurus automatic was my Dad's Car and just recently became mine.

Well this evening after work, I started car, tried to put it in gear and it clunked and will not go into gear, shift is loose and will not change from Park. I do not know how to change the gears from under the car so left it where it was parked will have to handle tomorrow. If I am looking for the part needed, what would I be asking for. I do not have a manual for this vehicle so I am at a loss.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

There is a way to at least get it home.
On the driver's side of the engine compartment below the air filter you should be able to see the cable end that places the trans in gear.It should be located just in front of the steering column on the top of the trans. Have someone stay in the car with the engine running and holding their foot on the brakes. You will be able to move the lever on top of the trans that has the cable end attached to it. you will be able to feel the detents as you move the lever. The first detent will be reverse the second will be neutral and the third will be drive. Once there have that person drive your car home where you can then look and determine just what broke. It could be the cable , the shift tube or the lever itself. Just remember you will not be able to place the vehicle in park unless you move the lever on the trans by hand back to the same position as when you first started.

 

Thank you for the advice, took it to the shop my husband didn't want to deal with it cost 307 and it was the bushings and the cable. I know a little pricey but fixed. They did find another problem Surprise Surprise Surprise. I need to replace the front motor mount. Does anyone know where I can find a picture of this part and how to replace it?

 

Old thread, I know, but I figured since it was pretty close to what I'm dealing with...

I really appreciated the photos posted by the OP of the broken shift tube, as I think that's what I'm dealing with in my '94 E-150. I haven't taken it apart yet, but I felt a sudden *snap* followed by a flaccid shift lever. (Yes, if ever there was a time to use "flaccid"... :-p )

I've called a few places locally and they have the replacement, but I saw a mention of taking the entire upper column apart - can someone define "a lot" of parts? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but as this is my primary vehicle I hate working under time constraints.

Worst case, does anyone have a photo for what I should be looking for on top of the transmission to manually go through the detents and at least get it down to the shop myself?

Thanks!

 

Welcome to the site..

Could easily be the tube, but make sure to first look at the 'lower column' area just above where your feet would be. You'll see the shift cable come up through the floor/firewall. Follow it all the way up to the lower column selector arm. There are 2 torx screws that attach the arm. If any fall out it can/will feel like a tube problem. If their intack, it can either be the tube, or sometimes the half shell clamps that hold the tube down to the main column assy. You can remove the cable fom the lower column arm to make the gear changes, but be CAREFUL that the truck doesn't move unintentionally... Not a good practice to do it at the trans given the danger,, but.... If you need help replacing the tube, just post..

 

Thanks. Took it apart this morning and yep, the tube cracked at almost exactly the same point as the original photos in the thread. The goal tomorrow is to get the new one in and aligned, seems like there are a lot of arms, levers and cables that need to be matched up precisely

I'll probably post again when I get it all back together and it doesn't work

 

Got the new tube reassembled using the old pins, levers and such, but I probably should have taken a photo of how that switch in Park mates up with the lever arm on the end - I'm just not seeing how the lever operates the switch on the left side of the saddle clamp.

Other than that, seems pretty straightforward...

 

I know this is an old post thread but I am hoping someone will see and be able to help.....
So, I ALSO have a cracked shift tube, between the first clamp and second. I have the replacement tube. However, I am unsure that I have the new replacement "grommets" that my Chilton manual is talking about and it also states that I need a special tool (T67P-7341-A or T84P-341-A) in order to install the shaft linkage rod into the new grommet (that I don't think I have or know what they are talking about). I read through this entire post thread and none of you seemed to mention grommets or a particular tool..... so maybe I don't need it?? Can someone please lend a hand

*Chilton 26664 (page 7-18 Drive Train) reads:

Shift Linkage- Rod Type Linkage "Polyurethane plastic grommets are used to connect the various rods, lever and adjusting stud. Whenever a rod is disconnected from a grommet type connector, the old must be removed and a new grommet installed. A specific tool (T67P-7341-A) is required to install grommet in the shaft lever and to install the shaft linkage rod into the grommet."

Sounds like gibberish to me!! But maybe that's talking about replacing more than what I need to do...?

It's on my '92 f250 diesel that I recently purchased.

 

I may have already answered my own question.... after hours of trying to figure this out (I'm a newbie to this type of repair) I may have just found a diagram online showing the mysterious "grommets" and special tool. Both of which play no part in simply replacing the broken tube in the shift column. Thank you to everyone who posted their results and solutions in this discussion feed. At the end of the day, literally 11:01 PM, you saved me a lot of hassle. Now my roommate can soon have his truck back hopefully!!