Has anyone ran into an issue with part number CA8Z-19980-B? It is the module that controls the fans and ours has died. Ford no longer makes the part and we are not having any luck on Amazon or eBay trying to find the replacement part. Any workarounds others have done to get the fans blowing again?

 

Consider trying ,

Vintage Parts Inc.
located in Beaver Dam, Wisc.

If heiko can supply a wiring diagram for your vehicle, we should be able to offer a few changes that will allow you to get some things working again.

 

My Alldata is only up to 2008 any make/model.
Who determined that your hvac control unit is dead?

 

Our mechanic traced it back to the control unit, which is the part I listed. We have already replaced the blower motor and relays so we knew it wasn't that and finally took it in. After finding what the issue was he offered to install it if we could find the part since Ford no longer makes it. The AC and heat work fine. And you can feel a very very low flow of air. The rear AC and heat work fine as well and the blower works fine in the back as well on all speeds.

 

You said you can feel a little flow of air even when you turn the **** to max, is it from the correct position you selected, say face+foot? Let say you select defrost does it blow the same little air to only the defrost vent? Heater, same little flow of HOT air? Can you try that? Just wanna see if there is a problem with your mode door or the check valve at vacuum reservoir.

When that happen does it matter your vehicle is idling and running?

If the mechanic insisted your hvac control unit was bad, did he bypass the control unit to verify?
What kind of code reader/scanner did he or you use?

 

The airflow is very very low. It is the same no matter what position the fan **** is in. It also blows the same for each of the vent locations, Dash, below Dash, Face Vents, etc.

And when I say the air flow is low, it just means you can feel cool air coming out. There is no real force behind it. The fan never turns on.

It happens if the car is at idle or moving down the road.

As for the overall steps he took while looking at it, I cannot speak to that. I will have to ask.

 

If his scanner is capable to do active test (or activation test), tell him to do it, doing so is to BYPASS the control unit. That is to say, you do not even need to touch or turn your A/C to any position, your scanner will turn it on on your behalf and bypass your control unit.

Example of when to do active test, say you drive a manual tranny and you need to replace a light bulb on your reverse light, but you are alone and no helper, and you need to verify if you put the new light bulb in correct polarity, you can:
1) during night time drive to a business plaza (more buildings with glass window/door) and reverse, then you can see from the glass reflection and tell if both of your lights are on
2) run active test on your scanner, your scanner can turn on your reverse lights on your behalf (with a duration of 15 seconds for example) without having you to stay inside the car and step on the clutch and switch to reverse gear, you can instead step outside to verify. Note on automatic you can of course set the parking brake and shift to reverse and get out of the car, on manual you can't, your left foot has to step on the clutch, shift to reverse gear, and your left foot can't let go or engine will stall.

Most scanners are capable to do active test, ask your mechanic if his scanner can do that, and if he at all knows how to use it, or is aware of such feature, to bypass your control unit.
There is of course another way to bypass your control unit but you will need to know the electrical wiring, remove the control unit, and jump the appropriate wires directly.

As far as the check valve on vacuum reservoir, that usually happens when you have very weak flow when going uphill, since you said there is no difference whether your vehicle is idling or moving, so it can be a vacuum leak to the reservoir and perhaps along with a faulty check valve.

If it's not too difficult to get to your heater core, I would get to it, remove the cover and get to the blend door case and feel the air flow there by hand, this can eliminate the guess work whether or not there is a leak in the duct, stuck open/close mode door. Depends on where the reservoir is located, note inside the cabin it's blend door then mode door then air vent. If you can't get any or very weak air flow to blend door case, then the issue is outside the cabin.

My Alldata software is only up to 2008 so I don't have any diagram on your car. You have just a single AC compressor right?

 

Hi Alan,
Since you already replaced the front blower motor, you have some idea of what is there.

With Fords, the system provides a constant supply power to the motor and is hot with the key on.. The switch part provides the ground.
If you find the 2 wires going to the front blower motor , one is hot (with power) and the other gets it's ground either thru the resistor for other than hi speed, or usually thru a relay for hi speed. If you can unplug the wire that provides the ground ,at the motor, and jump a good ground to that wire, the motor should run , at hi speed. Can you do that, let us know what result you received, thanks.