This situation happened on 12/19/23 when I was leaving the store. My 2016 Ford Fusion (90k miles) stalled on me.I was approaching a red light when my car begin to shake, and then the engine shut off. My battery was still working since my radio and lights were still on, but the engine itself was off. I turned off the car, waited a few seconds and turned it back on. It lagged when I turned the car on. I took it to the dealer to get it checked out but because it had only happened once at the time, they couldn’t figure out what was wrong. They ran a diagnostic and nothing came up. They did notify me that I needed to get my brakes, rotors, brake fluid, and spark plugs changed. They said that was probably causing the engine to shut off.

However, this past Wednesday, 1/31/24, it stalled on me again while I was driving home from the grocery store. I was again approaching a red light when my car begin to shake. I knew it was stalling so I parked the car, turned it off and turned it back on. When the light turned green, I accelerated, but my car jolted a bit. I switched into the emergency lane right as the car began to shake again and turn back off. Once again, I turned the car off, waited maybe 2 minutes, turned it back on, and drove home slowly and cautiously and I made it home safely.

The following day, 2/1/24, I was leaving the shopping center when again, my car began to shake, engine shut off. I proceed to turn the car off again, waited two minutes, and turned it back on. It was fine and I made it home safely.

Keep in mind, the car begins shaking while I’m driving, and the car stops on its own. I had a quarter tank of gas and a recent oil change in November with the oil life currently at 60%.

Now that it’s happening again, I’m not sure what it could be. Does anyone know what might be causing the engine to shut off?

 

There could be a laundry list of things that might cause an engine to shut down.

It is unfortunate the dealership couldn't have been more helpful.

What does help in preventing a lot of these things is the routine scheduled maintenance that is outlined in the owner's manual.

Oil changes are only one of the maintenance recommendations. might be a good idea to look at the schedule and see where you might have missed some important services. Parts do wear and break , but the schedule helps get them taken care of before they cause problems.

 

I could've wrote that myself! My 2016 fusion se ecoboost 1.5 started stalling somewhere between 91,000-93,000 miles. Seems to happen when I'm coming out of parking lots, etc, where I've been coasting. Once I turn onto a road and accelerate, that's when it stalls. I put mine in neutral, crank it, and it sounds like it takes quite a few seconds to start, but once it does, it drives fine. But sometimes it'll happen again soon after. And it doesn't happen every day. Today, though, it was bad! Happened several times. I even had to keep my foot slightly on the gas to keep it from stalling at a red light and in the whataburger drive thru.

 

I am have the exact same problem. I am a mechanic and am having a hard time tracking down the problem. Did you ever find out what was happening?

 

Did anybody check when the fuel filter was last changed ?
Description sounds like it is running out of fuel, which a restricted filter can produce.
We always check the simple things first.
There are times when purchasing fuel, we get some water and the filter will stop fuel from going through if loaded with water.
When we remove the filter, we tip it upside down to see what comes out. What you see can provide the answer.

 

Symptom like this I'd suggest you to check on your MAF first. Next time it stalls, instead of restarting your engine, you remove the electrical connector of your MAF, then wait 10 minutes, then restart your engine, you will get a CEL but don't worry about it, once your MAF is plugged back in the CEL will go away but don't do it now and keep driving, you will likely experiencing a very rough idling BUT your engine shouldn't stall anymore so you can continue your trip and when you get to your destination just plug the MAF back so the CEL (at least relevant to MAF) should go away. If all these are identical to your situation, and when your MAF is quite old or never been replaced, just replace it no further diagnostic needed, and most importantly no special tool needed, and no need to call for a toll truck and don't panic if you can pull over to the shoulder and do it. On the flip side, if removing the MAF doesn't help then you need to move on to something else. If your MAF is found to be at fault, you don't need to find a mechanic to replace it.