No engine code stalling when accelerating in drive.
I would be super grateful if someone could help me figure this out. I have 2014 Ford fusion 1.5l Ecoboost. Having a strange issue. The car is fine in reverse and while idling I can rev the engine in park but when I put it in drive and try to accelerate it stalls out. I replaced the fuel injector pressure sensor on the fuel rail (high pressure) I'm not getting any codes that specific to drive ability. I'm using a bi-directional scanner still can't figure it out. Super weird it's like the car is restricting the power and I can't really accelerate past 15 mph if I'm lucky and under a heavy load it'll stall. Literally will pay somebody to point me in the right direction lol
Last edited by DarcFusion; Jan 18, 2025 at 03:01 PM.
You said you are not getting any codes that specific to drive ability so what are all the codes that you get so we can see if they are really irrelevant.
Engine stalling like that can have a couple dozen causes and I'd start with the easiest.
Next time it stalls just shut it off and key out. Then remove just the electrical connector of your MAP sensor, then restart the engine and you will be thrown a CEL (just ignore it) and put it in DRIVE. You are going to get rough idling (just ignore) and drive and see if the engine stalls again or not. When your ECU can't see the present of MAF or MAP sensor, the factory default air-fuel ratio will be kicked in. Just drive around your house and see if it helps any. If it does then use electrical contact cleaner or 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean just the electrical connector of your MAP, and retry. Do not waste money to buy MAF cleaner, it's for routine cleaning only, if you haven't been cleaning the sensor routinely it wouldn't help. Like I said, many possibilities but this doesn't take much time to give it a try. Also, once you plug the electrical connector back in the CEL should go away.
Engine stalling like that can have a couple dozen causes and I'd start with the easiest.
Next time it stalls just shut it off and key out. Then remove just the electrical connector of your MAP sensor, then restart the engine and you will be thrown a CEL (just ignore it) and put it in DRIVE. You are going to get rough idling (just ignore) and drive and see if the engine stalls again or not. When your ECU can't see the present of MAF or MAP sensor, the factory default air-fuel ratio will be kicked in. Just drive around your house and see if it helps any. If it does then use electrical contact cleaner or 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean just the electrical connector of your MAP, and retry. Do not waste money to buy MAF cleaner, it's for routine cleaning only, if you haven't been cleaning the sensor routinely it wouldn't help. Like I said, many possibilities but this doesn't take much time to give it a try. Also, once you plug the electrical connector back in the CEL should go away.
Here's a snap shot of the codes that came up. I also checked fuel pump . My only assumption is MAF issue or fuel pressure sensor (fuel supply ) (low pressure ) . I replaced the high pressure sensor on the rail.
You said you are not getting any codes that specific to drive ability so what are all the codes that you get so we can see if they are really irrelevant.
Engine stalling like that can have a couple dozen causes and I'd start with the easiest.
Next time it stalls just shut it off and key out. Then remove just the electrical connector of your MAP sensor, then restart the engine and you will be thrown a CEL (just ignore it) and put it in DRIVE. You are going to get rough idling (just ignore) and drive and see if the engine stalls again or not. When your ECU can't see the present of MAF or MAP sensor, the factory default air-fuel ratio will be kicked in. Just drive around your house and see if it helps any. If it does then use electrical contact cleaner or 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean just the electrical connector of your MAP, and retry. Do not waste money to buy MAF cleaner, it's for routine cleaning only, if you haven't been cleaning the sensor routinely it wouldn't help. Like I said, many possibilities but this doesn't take much time to give it a try. Also, once you plug the electrical connector back in the CEL should go away.
Engine stalling like that can have a couple dozen causes and I'd start with the easiest.
Next time it stalls just shut it off and key out. Then remove just the electrical connector of your MAP sensor, then restart the engine and you will be thrown a CEL (just ignore it) and put it in DRIVE. You are going to get rough idling (just ignore) and drive and see if the engine stalls again or not. When your ECU can't see the present of MAF or MAP sensor, the factory default air-fuel ratio will be kicked in. Just drive around your house and see if it helps any. If it does then use electrical contact cleaner or 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean just the electrical connector of your MAP, and retry. Do not waste money to buy MAF cleaner, it's for routine cleaning only, if you haven't been cleaning the sensor routinely it wouldn't help. Like I said, many possibilities but this doesn't take much time to give it a try. Also, once you plug the electrical connector back in the CEL should go away.
Hey I added the snap shot and additional info to the other commenter . Sorry I'm new to this forum. I really appreciate you guys feeding me some info.
If your scanner cannot give you data stream info , we are operating somewhat in the dark..
There is a difference between data stream info and codes. Codes will provide some direction whereas data stream info will actually tell what is gong on.
There is a difference between data stream info and codes. Codes will provide some direction whereas data stream info will actually tell what is gong on.
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