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92 ford ranger manual 2wd 3.0

  #1  
Old 06-11-2019, 05:53 PM
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Default 92 ford ranger manual 2wd 3.0

Hello everyone I could really use some guidance. I recently replaced my transmission, clutch, slave cylinder, and pressure plate. I got everything back together and went to put the hydronic line back into the cylinder. I donít think itís all the way in. Will this cause the clutch to be hard as a rock? Additionally, I have the it in neutral but I can not push it. I jacked it up and the wheels are spinning in opposite directions and the drive shaft is not moving. How can I correct this?
In summary:
1. If the hydraulic line is not all the way in will that cause the clutch to not depress?
2. Why can I not push the car in neutral?
 
  #2  
Old 06-12-2019, 12:36 PM
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Anybody?
 
  #3  
Old 06-12-2019, 01:53 PM
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I would suspect the hydraulic line from the clutch master cyl is not all the way in , connected. When you attempt to depress the clutch pedal, the pressure created in the master has no place to go so it is hard like a rock. If you cannot release the clutch from the engine and the trans is in any gear you will not be able to move the truck.

Now this brings up a new question or two.
Why did you need to replace the trans?
Are you sure you have the clutch disc facing the correct direction, because if you don't , and the trans is in any gear the clutch is never separated from the flywheel and engine..
Next question, stick shift on the floor, sounds like the shift lever is not in the correct position in the trans, Can you manually get the trans to go into all of the gears with the engine off? Not any big problems , just have to touch all the bases and make sure everything was done correctly. There are plenty of things to do incorrectly and wind up with some of the problems you are seeing.
 
  #4  
Old 06-12-2019, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky View Post
I would suspect the hydraulic line from the clutch master cyl is not all the way in , connected. When you attempt to depress the clutch pedal, the pressure created in the master has no place to go so it is hard like a rock. If you cannot release the clutch from the engine and the trans is in any gear you will not be able to move the truck.

Now this brings up a new question or two.
Why did you need to replace the trans?
Are you sure you have the clutch disc facing the correct direction, because if you don't , and the trans is in any gear the clutch is never separated from the flywheel and engine..
Next question, stick shift on the floor, sounds like the shift lever is not in the correct position in the trans, Can you manually get the trans to go into all of the gears with the engine off? Not any big problems , just have to touch all the bases and make sure everything was done correctly. There are plenty of things to do incorrectly and wind up with some of the problems you are seeing.
The first time it was done by a shop and they replaced all the things I mentioned above: I then drove it home and it was working. But, on the way home I could tell that the synchros were bad in it. Rather then pay a shop, I just bought another used tranny and threw that in not wanting to pay them again. (Did not remove anything besides the tranny)
I can shift threw all the gears with the truck off, but when I put it in neutral, it still wonít roll. The wheels spin in opposite directions while the shaft remains still. I canít seem to get the hydraulic line all the way in and I think thatís what is causing the clutch petal to not depress. All I can think to do now is once again pull the trans and put a new slave in it. The fluid is also nearly empty in the clutch reservoir. I canít imagine it would be the master cylinder because it was working fine before I dropped the trans.
 

Last edited by Synjon Muller; 06-12-2019 at 05:09 PM.
  #5  
Old 06-13-2019, 10:51 AM
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There are so many things that need to be addressed.
Suppose we take them one at a time,

Where did the fluid from the clutch master go ?
Don't get me wrong, but something just doesn't add up and what was the original problem, ?
The shop that did the clutch work, why couldn't they fix your original trans ?
In road testing it after the job they should have known the synchros were N/G. Did you know this before they started the job?
There seems to be a lot of duplication of efforts here, maybe it's just from where I am standing.
We can help you make a worthwhile decision, but the whole picture to me appears pretty cloudy.
Based on what you see is very different from what I think you see so we need to get on the same page..
Are you Ok with that?
 
  #6  
Old 06-22-2019, 08:42 PM
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Thanks for the reply hanky. I got the line back in and everything put back together. Now I have a problem with the shifter. I know for a fact that the shift rails are in neutral when I put the shifter in. After starting it, I can easily shift into first then after that thr shifter gets super loose and floppy and I canít tell what gear Iím in. What could be causing this.
 
  #7  
Old 06-22-2019, 09:21 PM
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Nevermind, I just needed to use a shifter repair kit.
 
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