I have a 99 Ford Ranger with 60K miles. I am getting a squeling noise that sounds like a bearing going out. The noise comes when the engine is cold and tends to go away when the engine is warm. After I hear the noise the first time,the check engine light for a P0340 Camshaft sensor. I have taken it in to a dealership and I was told thatthe cause was I have plug wires that aren't Motorcraft. I don't really believe that the brand of plugwires would be causing my problem. The dealer cleared the check engine light but my problem came back.Any ideas what could be causing this problem? I don't want to go back to the dealer so they can tell me to change the plugwires again.

 

Could be the camshaft 'synchronizer'.. Noise is fairly commonas a high pitch squeal and/or 'chirp' that tends to be engine temp sensitive.. The synchronizer shaft and/or housing can run dry and will chirp or squeal and may even be intermittent.. You might 'carefully' place a long screw driver, extension, brake tube, metal rod ect., asa stethoscopeagainst the synchronizer body/base and listen to help diagnose the origin.. Usually the sound will be pretty pronounced there, and easy to detect.. The synchronizer looks like a short distributor with the CMP sensor mounted on top.. If the noiseseems to be coming from the synchronizer, pull the accessory drive belt/s to take the them as well as tensioner/idler,and drive components out of the diagnostic loop as a possible noise cause.. The synchronizer is timing sensitive during a replacement..

Here's a few pics for ID..

[IMG]local://upfiles/6756/04AED7206BF84AA49D4041BB86676DF1.gif[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6756/F4EE6DF472D748D0A8FB89EC91157A7B.gif[/IMG]

 

I agree with the previous post, the source of your noise is the synchronizer. I can't believe that the dealer told you the source of your problem was wires. As a 35 year ford dealer technician, I am embarrassed. I suggest you do not return to that dealer. For anything. The synchro is timing sensitive in that it tells the PCM when to fire the injectors. If it is off just a few degrees, it can affect your fuel economy and engine performance. Short of having the tool to align it with, I would suggest bring it to top dead center and mark the location of the connector slot in the synchro, so that when you drop the old one back in you can get it in time. It is pretty much the same as doing a distributor. Hope this fixes your problem. Lee

 

Thanks for the help. I will try the sychronizer and see if that fixes the problem.

 

I ment to say when you replace the old one, with the new one, you can put it back in time, or close to time.