02 Taurus cranks but won't start
#61
01-12-2014, 07:49 AM
Trying to get a look at a diagram for your vehicle , having a heck of a time.
One diagram shows the wire to the coil as whit/blu another shows it as red.
In any case there should be only one wire at the coil plug (when unplugged) that when the key is on, should measure battery volts. If you have that , half of the check is done. The other half is to leave the plug off the coil pack and any one of the other wires that come from the PCM to ground one of the coils should have no ground connection until the engine is cranked and the PCM grounds that coil to fire. Even if only one coil works the engine should attempt to start. If nothing happens there the PCM is suspect after the power and grounds have been verified.
One diagram shows the wire to the coil as whit/blu another shows it as red.
In any case there should be only one wire at the coil plug (when unplugged) that when the key is on, should measure battery volts. If you have that , half of the check is done. The other half is to leave the plug off the coil pack and any one of the other wires that come from the PCM to ground one of the coils should have no ground connection until the engine is cranked and the PCM grounds that coil to fire. Even if only one coil works the engine should attempt to start. If nothing happens there the PCM is suspect after the power and grounds have been verified.
I'm in a little town called Hurlock. it's about 45 miles southeast of the Bay Bridge
#62
01-12-2014, 08:23 AM
The plug that plugs onto your coil pack should have a few wires going to it.
One of those wires is supplied battery power 12 volts to the coil pack when the key is on , we need to confirm that.
There are at least three more wires, one for each coil ,that come from the PCM and when the PCM wants to fire a coil it grounds the other side of that coil to create the spark.You can check any one of those three to see if it is grounded by the PCM. This has to be done when the engine is cranking and the PCM is receiving the crank signal from the crank sensor. We would usually confirm the crank sensor signal to the PCM by unplugging that particular plug from the PCM and with the engine cranking see if that 2 volt AC signal is getting to that point. You could also check this with your ohmmeter by connecting one lead to each of the crank sensor terminals on the harness side and the other ohmmeter lead to the pin at the particular pin of the PCM plug. That is why we need a diagram to tell us which wire color that is.
All we are doing is making sure the signal from the crank sensor is getting to the PCM and that the PCM is grounding the correct coil to create the spark.
Once we confirm the wiring is intact and has continuity we look for where we lose the signal.
All I think, we know so far is the crank sensor is working , but don't know if that signal is getting to the PCM or if the PCM is sending any signals to the coils to fire them.
One of those wires is supplied battery power 12 volts to the coil pack when the key is on , we need to confirm that.
There are at least three more wires, one for each coil ,that come from the PCM and when the PCM wants to fire a coil it grounds the other side of that coil to create the spark.You can check any one of those three to see if it is grounded by the PCM. This has to be done when the engine is cranking and the PCM is receiving the crank signal from the crank sensor. We would usually confirm the crank sensor signal to the PCM by unplugging that particular plug from the PCM and with the engine cranking see if that 2 volt AC signal is getting to that point. You could also check this with your ohmmeter by connecting one lead to each of the crank sensor terminals on the harness side and the other ohmmeter lead to the pin at the particular pin of the PCM plug. That is why we need a diagram to tell us which wire color that is.
All we are doing is making sure the signal from the crank sensor is getting to the PCM and that the PCM is grounding the correct coil to create the spark.
Once we confirm the wiring is intact and has continuity we look for where we lose the signal.
All I think, we know so far is the crank sensor is working , but don't know if that signal is getting to the PCM or if the PCM is sending any signals to the coils to fire them.
#63
01-12-2014, 03:46 PM
The plug that plugs onto your coil pack should have a few wires going to it.
One of those wires is supplied battery power 12 volts to the coil pack when the key is on , we need to confirm that.
There are at least three more wires, one for each coil ,that come from the PCM and when the PCM wants to fire a coil it grounds the other side of that coil to create the spark.You can check any one of those three to see if it is grounded by the PCM. This has to be done when the engine is cranking and the PCM is receiving the crank signal from the crank sensor. We would usually confirm the crank sensor signal to the PCM by unplugging that particular plug from the PCM and with the engine cranking see if that 2 volt AC signal is getting to that point. You could also check this with your ohmmeter by connecting one lead to each of the crank sensor terminals on the harness side and the other ohmmeter lead to the pin at the particular pin of the PCM plug. That is why we need a diagram to tell us which wire color that is.
All we are doing is making sure the signal from the crank sensor is getting to the PCM and that the PCM is grounding the correct coil to create the spark.
Once we confirm the wiring is intact and has continuity we look for where we lose the signal.
All I think, we know so far is the crank sensor is working , but don't know if that signal is getting to the PCM or if the PCM is sending any signals to the coils to fire them.
One of those wires is supplied battery power 12 volts to the coil pack when the key is on , we need to confirm that.
There are at least three more wires, one for each coil ,that come from the PCM and when the PCM wants to fire a coil it grounds the other side of that coil to create the spark.You can check any one of those three to see if it is grounded by the PCM. This has to be done when the engine is cranking and the PCM is receiving the crank signal from the crank sensor. We would usually confirm the crank sensor signal to the PCM by unplugging that particular plug from the PCM and with the engine cranking see if that 2 volt AC signal is getting to that point. You could also check this with your ohmmeter by connecting one lead to each of the crank sensor terminals on the harness side and the other ohmmeter lead to the pin at the particular pin of the PCM plug. That is why we need a diagram to tell us which wire color that is.
All we are doing is making sure the signal from the crank sensor is getting to the PCM and that the PCM is grounding the correct coil to create the spark.
Once we confirm the wiring is intact and has continuity we look for where we lose the signal.
All I think, we know so far is the crank sensor is working , but don't know if that signal is getting to the PCM or if the PCM is sending any signals to the coils to fire them.
thank you, Bill
#64
01-12-2014, 04:27 PM
I agree with your decision, especially since you did all the work !!
Now, when you get the replacement PCM it has to have the coding from all your keys programmed into it or the vehicle will not start. Some shops have the tool to do this and so do some locksmiths who are cheaper than a dealership. Once that is done you can install it and it should start and run. Where you get the replacement PCM is up to you, but if you get it from Ford they may program it for you at no charge , you don't know until you ask. You should bring your VIN and any coded keys with you.
You went through he wringer on this one, but your ability and knowledge of using the multimeter really paid off. If you so desire, there are a lot of folks on this forum that can benefit from yours and schroensr's experience.
I think you'll agree it beats working out in the rain!
Now, when you get the replacement PCM it has to have the coding from all your keys programmed into it or the vehicle will not start. Some shops have the tool to do this and so do some locksmiths who are cheaper than a dealership. Once that is done you can install it and it should start and run. Where you get the replacement PCM is up to you, but if you get it from Ford they may program it for you at no charge , you don't know until you ask. You should bring your VIN and any coded keys with you.
You went through he wringer on this one, but your ability and knowledge of using the multimeter really paid off. If you so desire, there are a lot of folks on this forum that can benefit from yours and schroensr's experience.
I think you'll agree it beats working out in the rain!
Last edited by hanky; 01-12-2014 at 04:38 PM.
#65
01-12-2014, 05:23 PM
I agree with your decision, especially since you did all the work !!
Now, when you get the replacement PCM it has to have the coding from all your keys programmed into it or the vehicle will not start. Some shops have the tool to do this and so do some locksmiths who are cheaper than a dealership. Once that is done you can install it and it should start and run. Where you get the replacement PCM is up to you, but if you get it from Ford they may program it for you at no charge , you don't know until you ask. You should bring your VIN and any coded keys with you.
You went through he wringer on this one, but your ability and knowledge of using the multimeter really paid off. If you so desire, there are a lot of folks on this forum that can benefit from yours and schroensr's experience.
I think you'll agree it beats working out in the rain!
Now, when you get the replacement PCM it has to have the coding from all your keys programmed into it or the vehicle will not start. Some shops have the tool to do this and so do some locksmiths who are cheaper than a dealership. Once that is done you can install it and it should start and run. Where you get the replacement PCM is up to you, but if you get it from Ford they may program it for you at no charge , you don't know until you ask. You should bring your VIN and any coded keys with you.
You went through he wringer on this one, but your ability and knowledge of using the multimeter really paid off. If you so desire, there are a lot of folks on this forum that can benefit from yours and schroensr's experience.
I think you'll agree it beats working out in the rain!
Not sure what I am going to do with it right now. What little bit of money I had, I spent on the sensors, coilpack and spark plugs. Looks like it will be sitting for a while.
I want to thank you and Schroensr for all your feedback. It has been very helpful having the guidance. I am a very capable mechanic, I've been fixing things for 50 years from bicycles, mini bikes, lawn mowers, cars, boilers and anything household but the technology in modern cars has surpassed my knowledge.
I do have one more question. If I acquire a PCM can it be programmed off the car or does it need to be installed to program it. The reason I ask is because since the car is home, if it needs to be programmed "on the car" I will need to find a way to get the car to an appropriately equipped shop on top of all the other expenses. Of course, I live in a little rinky dink town with no suitable shops so that will mean I will need to have it towed to another town. OH joy!!!!https://www.fordforum.com/forum/imag...lies/frown.gif
#66
01-12-2014, 06:35 PM
Your vehicle has the "E" type PATS system and yes it does have to be on the vehicle to have it programmed (parameter reset) for the PATS system to work. Check around as stated earlier and you may be able to have a locksmith with the right equip do it at home. A Ford dealer may be able to send the tech out with the right equip and do it at your home. The system does require two keys to be programmed correctly. You are on the homestretch now , take it slow and it will work out !
You are going to need that second key for the PCM to be programmed . Consider getting the second uncoded key either from Ford or from a locksmith if he has one. The usual cost is in the area of $70.00 for a code type key.
You are going to need that second key for the PCM to be programmed . Consider getting the second uncoded key either from Ford or from a locksmith if he has one. The usual cost is in the area of $70.00 for a code type key.
Last edited by hanky; 01-12-2014 at 06:44 PM.
#67
01-12-2014, 07:02 PM
Bill , I wish it would have started for you. I thank you for trying to let me help you. Hank , It's my pleasure to have worked with you on this . I know about things going bad Bill. Today my friend had the bad luck of pipes freezing in his house while at work two days ago . At least I got his Blazer working for him today . Thanks Guys .
#68
01-12-2014, 09:07 PM
Your vehicle has the "E" type PATS system and yes it does have to be on the vehicle to have it programmed (parameter reset) for the PATS system to work. Check around as stated earlier and you may be able to have a locksmith with the right equip do it at home. A Ford dealer may be able to send the tech out with the right equip and do it at your home. The system does require two keys to be programmed correctly. You are on the homestretch now , take it slow and it will work out !
You are going to need that second key for the PCM to be programmed . Consider getting the second uncoded key either from Ford or from a locksmith if he has one. The usual cost is in the area of $70.00 for a code type key.
You are going to need that second key for the PCM to be programmed . Consider getting the second uncoded key either from Ford or from a locksmith if he has one. The usual cost is in the area of $70.00 for a code type key.
#69
01-26-2014, 07:04 PM
Hey guys, hope someone is still watching..... I have a question. Does the PATS system interrupt the fuel the ignition or both?
#70
01-27-2014, 03:23 AM
There are at least 7 versions of Ford's PATS syst. The majority if them disable the starter solenoid and fuel pump/ injectors.
There are many conditions that have to be met for the systems to work properly.
It is after all an "anti-theft" system. Can be a PIA to troubleshoot at times.
There are many conditions that have to be met for the systems to work properly.
It is after all an "anti-theft" system. Can be a PIA to troubleshoot at times.