65 fairlane smoking
289 40 over compression 160,175,175,180,190,180,180,175.#1 wet 160 to 175. Leakdown 3% all cylinders.problem no smoke at start up,rev engine no smoke let off smokes about 3 to 5 seconds later. Guessing top end intake manifold leak from valley as it smokes at high vacuum.guides or seals any suggestions?
What kind of shape are the valve stem seals in? They really didn't last long on these engines, and always seemed to be a problem, along with alot of valve guide wear. I wouldn't say you have a base engine problem with the supplied compression readings, but if chrome/moly rings were used, that could also be a problem.
With smoke coming after rev motor going to high vaccuum it would be sucking in from top end not bottom end right? Also H.O heads solid seats rebuilder used umbrella seals not positive.they float, but are still on cant tell actual condition just see. Heads machined for guides as well.what are thoughts on #1 being 160 dry then 175 wet and # 5 190 only did #1 wet as it was lowest.
Well, that variance on an engine that's been pretty throughly gone through is a little troubling, but for that class engine, I don't think I'd tear it down any further then the heads a take a good look around. These engines used to clog up the rear oil returns (very common), keep the return lube up in the heads, and then smoke. I don't imagine that's the problem here, epsecially if the engine's been apart. When they got real bad, the nice part was the valve guide wear pretty much went away.
As for the compression, look for a valve seat/valve problem first. The "Junior Jewel" as Ford used to call the 289 was a very durable, willing engine. I know it's probably my imagination, but it always seemed to rev faster then the 302.
One of the best ways to look at this is if any problems aren't found in the heads, then the short block is much easier to get out if need be. If you do find some kind of head problem, make sure to replace the PCV valve, as these were also common to sludging.
By the way, is this an automatic or standard old 'three in the tree'? Maybe if it was ordered with the 4 speed (which was a rare option). I drove a 65 Galaxie with overdrive, which I always thought made those powertrains much smoother. I miss the older, simpler days.
It sure beats working on EEC V Fuel injection!
As for the compression, look for a valve seat/valve problem first. The "Junior Jewel" as Ford used to call the 289 was a very durable, willing engine. I know it's probably my imagination, but it always seemed to rev faster then the 302.
One of the best ways to look at this is if any problems aren't found in the heads, then the short block is much easier to get out if need be. If you do find some kind of head problem, make sure to replace the PCV valve, as these were also common to sludging.
By the way, is this an automatic or standard old 'three in the tree'? Maybe if it was ordered with the 4 speed (which was a rare option). I drove a 65 Galaxie with overdrive, which I always thought made those powertrains much smoother. I miss the older, simpler days.
It sure beats working on EEC V Fuel injection!
On second thought, these also had adjustable rockers. They were kinda hard to do a valve adjustment on, but there were ways around it.
Take a look for the top of the valve on being beaten down. You could try to tighten the affected valves a bit if need be, but not more then about 1/2 turn should do; and like I said, if the engine's been apart, this shouldn't be an issue.
I might get alot of flack for this, but I've seen many of these engines that were rebuilt that had head problems. Take a look at the cam also if the engines apart. If the guide were knurlered instead of replaced (which was common and much cheaper then replacement), it might have a guide that's really worn. This would be the best possilbe case.
Take a look for the top of the valve on being beaten down. You could try to tighten the affected valves a bit if need be, but not more then about 1/2 turn should do; and like I said, if the engine's been apart, this shouldn't be an issue.
I might get alot of flack for this, but I've seen many of these engines that were rebuilt that had head problems. Take a look at the cam also if the engines apart. If the guide were knurlered instead of replaced (which was common and much cheaper then replacement), it might have a guide that's really worn. This would be the best possilbe case.
It's nice to know that the power will be well handled. The old 9" rear end could handle just about anything thrown its way, and with any kind of shift kit, the venerable old C-4 will be able to handle it. I just wish they made them that way now!
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