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A certified locksmith will have access to the "as built" info for your vehicle . He should be able to make at least 2 keys for you.
He will require your registration for proof of ownership though.
Compared to what you have spent so far might be less in the long run. Get estimates..
I had a locksmith friend come over this morning and couldn't program a new key on it beause the Obd port wouldn't communicate, had power but wouldn't communicate
Your 1999 Taurus has 153 or 185 or 200 horsepower?
Do you remember when you removed the C121 relay, the wire color is PK (pink) or BK (black) at terminal 85?
Need to know if your engine has 24 valve or not in order to upload correct diagrams.
Below are pinpoint test C.
The previous diagram might not apply to your car and could be wrong when that wire is BK instead of PK.
How about horsepower and you have 24 valve or not? If you see DOHC then that's 4 valve x 6 = 24 valve. Another way to tell is your VIN, is it with U or S? U = 12 valve, S = 24 valve. This is very important, need to know that as well before I can attach new correct diagram.
Not all PATS will interrupt at the starter stage (causing no crank no start), some will only disable at injector stage (causing crank no start).
You said you can't check obd port still, how about your PATS light, does it stay solid or blinking or prove out previously when you were able to crank and start the engine?
You are on a wild goose chase wasting time and energy chasing the starting system circuit. Your vehicle has a serious power supply problem.
The 1000 code is telling us there is a serious disconnect in the electrical system..
The fact that the locksmith could not gain access to the system backs up the suspicion of a disconnect in the system.
A correct diagram would be helpful, but when we cannot always get one, we have to resort to the actual physical checking ALL wiring frombattery to fuse panel.
Until you verify that power is getting to all the right places you are running in place and getting nowhere.
At this point it could be a broken wire, open fusible link, or no connection where there should be one.
You have my sympathy because you have been toying with this quite a while and I have to admire your patience and perseverance.
One thing I would suggest you check is do you have 5 volts getting to any sensor like TPS. If you don't have it, either the PCM has an internal problem or it is not getting power either.
Correct diagram above.
If you compare the one previously, upper left you can see 3.0L 4V and 3.4L SHO, this new diagram you see 3.0L 2V
4V is 24 valve whereas 2V is 12 valve and you said you have 12V.
Have a look at this new diagram, terminal 85 with BK instead of PK wire, and no PATS on yours. So don't worry about finding locksmith, at least your PATS doesn't interrupt your starter motor.
Remember you said (1) you get ground signal on both previously?
What I suggest is to bench test the relay, both old and new, and see if you can feel or hear any click and see you get 12v on terminal 87 is most important. Do you think you can handle the bench test or you need more details?
1) Terminal 85 (BK wire) - you confirmed ground signal previously this time please test resistance, 5ohm or less? You know how to test this or you need help with this?
2) Terminal 30 (LG/VT wire) - you confirmed 12.56V previously
3) Terminal 87 (WH/PK wire) - you confirmed 0V previously
x) Terminal 86 (TN/RD wire) - you confirmed 12.38V previously
Let's get your starter to crank and start first, then work on the obd port's electrical stuffs.
