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It is a personal preference thing.
Every case is different and depending on which is easier and less time and less effort I have found it quicker to look at what I have (works). and work back to what I should have , but don't have then concentrate on the missing piece Works for me !
ok put a jumper wire from battery positive post to terminal 30 behind relay panel and doesn't start when I turn key!
i tried this jump test again behind panel and wrapped wire around 30 on relay and does nothing when I turn key, what else could it be, we have done a lot of test and exchange Parts and relays, would the ignition switch block be bad or even ECM?
Not energize: something wrong with terminal 86 connection
energize: something wrong with terminal 30 connection
1) Put everything back into place and plug the relay back.
2) Turn the key to START
3) Can you hear or feel the clicking at the relay?
YES - go to (A)
NO - something wrong with terminal 86 connection, go to (Z)
A) Use voltmeter and get voltage of terminal 87 from underneath while cranking
If it's non-zero volt but the starter motor is not responding at all, then there is a problem on your WH/PK wire from terminal 87 to your starter solenoid S terminal.
If it's 0 volt then the power feed (constant 12v hot at all time) to your terminal 30 has a problem
Z) Use voltmeter and get voltage of terminal 86 from underneath while cranking
if it's 9.6V or above that means your ignition switch and range sensor are doing their job, perhaps the wiring connection to terminal 86 is bad
if it's 0 volt say so then we need to take different approach
Remove the relay and do a bench test again:
chassis ground to terminal 85
battery 12v post to terminal 30
voltmeter red to terminal 87
voltmeter black to chassis ground
jumper wire from terminal 86 to battery 12v post
what voltage you get at your voltmeter when you put the jumper wire to battery 12v post?
Now do a semi-bench test to the relay (from underneath) on the car as follows:
chassis ground to terminal 85
battery 12v post to terminal 30
voltmeter red to terminal 87
voltmeter black to chassis ground
jumper wire from terminal 86 to pin 12 (TN/RD) of your range sensor
what voltage you get at your voltmeter when you turn the key to START?
Also, have you tried the bypass both fuse # 3 and fuse 34 and ignition switch and range sensor I mentioned previously?
Not energize: something wrong with terminal 86 connection
energize: something wrong with terminal 30 connection
1) Put everything back into place and plug the relay back.
2) Turn the key to START
3) Can you hear or feel the clicking at the relay?
YES - go to (A)
NO - something wrong with terminal 86 connection, go to (Z
NO
A) Use voltmeter and get voltage of terminal 87 from underneath while cranking
If it's non-zero volt but the starter motor is not responding at all, then there is a problem on your WH/PK wire from terminal 87 to your starter solenoid S terminal.
If it's 0 volt then the power feed (constant 12v hot at all time) to your terminal 30 has a problem
Z) Use voltmeter and get voltage of terminal 86 from underneath while cranking
if it's 9.6V or above that means your ignition switch and range sensor are doing their job, perhaps the wiring connection to terminal 86 is bad
if it's 0 volt say so then we need to take different approach
0 Volts
Remove the relay and do a bench test again:
chassis ground to terminal 85
battery 12v post to terminal 30
voltmeter red to terminal 87
voltmeter black to chassis ground
jumper wire from terminal 86 to battery 12v post
what voltage you get at your voltmeter when you put the jumper wire to battery 12v post?
0 volts
Now do a semi-bench test to the relay (from underneath) on the car as follows:
chassis ground to terminal 85
battery 12v post to terminal 30
voltmeter red to terminal 87
voltmeter black to chassis ground
jumper wire from terminal 86 to pin 12 (TN/RD) of your range sensor
what voltage you get at your voltmeter when you turn the key to START?
0 Volts
Also, have you tried the bypass both fuse # 3 and fuse 34 and ignition switch and range sensor I mentionedpreviously?
How do you bypass fuse # 3 and 34 , I do not have a fuse 34 on the relay panel it is blank with no wires behind it!
Locate pin 34 above, from ignition switch to Fuse Junction Panel (should be under dash) it's pin 34 at fuse panel, circuit 32 and RD/LB wire. Refer to diagram at post #40. Check that 10A fuse at step (e).
step (f), please also check fuse 3, circuit 262 (BN/PK) wire in diagram below:
The fuse # 3 at step e is at battery junction box as shown below (lower right 40A):
Look at the 3 red arrows below, we need to check only the relevant fuses, no more no less.
Locate pin 34 above, from ignition switch to Fuse Junction Panel (should be under dash) it's pin 34 at fuse panel, circuit 32 and RD/LB wire. Refer to diagram at post #40. Check that 10A fuse at step (e).
step (f), please also check fuse 3, circuit 262 (BN/PK) wire in diagram below:
The fuse # 3 at step e is at battery junction box as shown below (lower right 40A):
Look at the 3 red arrows below, we need to check only the relevant fuses, no more no less.
Ok I located pin 32 and The Rd/Lb wire coming from ignition switch block and checked #3 fuse all looked good
Remove the relay and do a bench test again:
chassis ground to terminal 85
battery 12v post to terminal 30
voltmeter red to terminal 87
voltmeter black to chassis ground
jumper wire from terminal 86 to battery 12v post
what voltage you get at your voltmeter when you put the jumper wire to battery 12v post?
0 volts
How did you do your bench test previously and if you compare yours and above.
I did bench test, just as you mentioned!
I Dont understand what's going on with this car, I have been trying to figure this thing out with your help for several months, I am about to give up on it!
I thought you have the old starter relay and you also bought a new one. So both failed the bench test?
Can you do just the bench test again using another identical relay from your relay box?
If this fails again you might want to try the bench test on another car. You know the required components on the bench test are just the battery, the relay, a voltmeter and your jumper wires.
You can even bench test it using a 9.6V to 14.4V battery from your power tool. Whatever brand of power tool you have, dewalt or milwaukee doesn't matter, just need to figure out using a voltmeter which pin gets you preferably closest 12v (or in 9.6V to 14.4V range) and ground.
For example, a dewalt:
