Are we sure there is no PATS module in this vehicle?

If there is and there is supposed to be, it will have an effect on what the PCM does.

The PCM controls fuel spark and starting.
What we do know
Starter works
Range sw works and has power

What we , so far don't know is,
Are we getting fuel to the combustion chambers
Do we have spark
Are we getting power to the coils and injectors
That is why we need to remove a spark plug to verify fuel is getting to the combustion chambers.
If we have fuel and spark, we can get the starter to operate and the engine should start. Then we can pinpoint why the starter won't operate with the key.
This is all basic stuff.

I believe chasing down the starting system is the long way home.

Can we pull up a diagram of the power distribution for this vehicle ?

 

At this point the very 1st stage is to get it to crank using the key.
2nd stage is to resolve crank no start if the car still can be started.

It's not recommended to jump to stage 2 at this moment.

His car is V6 2V (12 valve) so no PATS involved at the starting circuit.
Terminal 85 of the relay has ground at all time to ground point G104 (refer to diagram at post #40).

That's why on my previous post I suggest to do a bench test on the relay using relay socket extension to simulate the starting, then using the same relay socket as an extension to the relay box and do a semi-bench test on the car.
Another test is to the terminal 30, assuming you always said 1 string wire out of 1 million gets voltage, by adding a jumper wire or cable from the battery 12v post to terminal 30 directly to help out the LG/VT wire in case only 1 good string wire left like you always said. Ideally this helper wire/cable from battery 12v post to terminal 30 should be thick like 8-12AWG, jumper wire is a bit too thin. Refer to diagram at post #40, you can see it's Fuse # 3 with 40A. With relay socket extension he can add a thick cable easily from the top of the relay box, doing all those from the bottom is not so safe, can easily short something out or catch a fire.

 

Thanks Heiko,
Can you produce a power distribution diagram for us, thanks.

If Hamboned removes the starter relay, wraps the one end of his jumper wire around terminal 86 ON the starter relay plugs it back in then touches the positive post of the battery,, he will hear if the relay works and if it does he will either hear the starter engage or it won't. .

If he gets nothing, there is a power supply problem coming to terminal 30.and that power comes through the 40 amp fuse and splice from the ign sw..

 

Index page of power and ground distribution. Check Power_Ground_Distribution.pdf below for more details.

 

Thank you for the info.

We have done all we can do ,and now we need to wait for Hamboned to do his part .

Enjoyed working with you, Heiko.
There is nothing wrong with two different approaches , and it is good we keep in mind we do not want to suggest anything where someone can get injured.

Have a great day

 

ok put a jumper wire from battery positive post to terminal 30 behind relay panel and doesn't start when I turn key!

 

Are you going to try what I suggested applying power to the #86 terminal with the relay put back in place ?

Post # 73

 

I thought he tried that already.
No risk to try one more time:
1) Turn your key to ON/RUN (not start)
2) Voltmeter red to terminal 87 underneath the relay box, black to chassis ground
3) From terminal 86 underneath the relay box to battery 12v post

Immediately watch your voltmeter and see if you get non-zero volt, at the same time try to hear if your starter is responding or not.

You said jumper wire from battery to terminal 30 no crank still. When you use thin wire, don't expect the starter to crank, but you should get non-zero volt at terminal 86, can you set your voltmeter to terminal 86 and check again?
Jumper wires being so thin, for the purpose of checking voltage/resistance using multimeter, they are adequate. To use that as a helper (add a wire), too thin.
You are strongly urged to use thick cable like battery jumper cable or 8-12awg thickness. If you don't have any, try 18awg and see, since this WH/PK from terminal 87 is also a trigger wire to the starter motor but it can't be too thin. The thickest is circuit 605 (RD) feed from battery to starter (perhaps 2 or 4 AWG) as shown in post #64. But very first thing is to get non-zero voltage at terminal 87.

 

I was wondering why they would need a 40 amp fuse to supply that starter relay circuit .

It appears there are SEVERAL circuits being supplied by the ign sw. and when you add up the current that switch is supplying I saw my explanation.

The wire going down to the starter solenoid.would be more than adequate with a 14 or 10 gauge wire.that would be coming off terminal 87 of the starter relay..
There are a few 40 amp fuses bringing power to the smaller fuses supplying circuits with lower current requirements.

What sometimes helps is to just remove those large rating fuses, which are not blown , but just have corroded connections and just removing and reinstalling those fuses corrects the poor connection problem, which is what I believe we have here...
Might be time to verify sufficient power is getting through the ign sw.

 

Fuse # 3 (40A) to terminal 30
Fuse # 34 (10A) to terminal 86

Bypassing fuse 3, that's what we are waiting to see the result at this moment. (Actually not really bypassing, it's ADDING a circuit (as a helper) without fully bypassing circuit 1050 LG/VT wire, refer to post # 40 for diagram)
1) 8-12awg wire from battery 12v post to terminal 30 underneath relay box
2) voltmeter red to terminal 87 underneath relay box, black lead to chassis ground
3) turn key to START

Crank or not is NOT important on this test, getting non-zero voltage at terminal 87 is what we need to see.

If fuse # 34 is blown, he wouldn't get any voltage at terminal 86 (TN/RD), multiple tests already confirmed it's fine at terminal 86.
Below is to bypass both fuse # 3 and fuse 34 and ignition switch and range sensor: (semi-bench test the relay on the car)
a) 8-12awg wire from battery 12v post to terminal 30 underneath relay box
b) voltmeter red to terminal 87 underneath relay box, black lead to chassis ground
c) remove the key it's not needed, you are to check for non-zero voltage at terminal 87, not to get the starter to crank
d) 8-24awg wire from terminal 86 underneath the relay box to battery 12v post (you energize the relay at battery 12v post, a little safer than triggering from the bottom of the relay box)
Check for non-zero voltage at terminal 87.
e) check to see if fuse 3 or 34 is blown.