Been working on these old FE engines since bully was a calf and am stumped with a capitol S.

Think my resistor ballast on my 69 f-100 is bad. Getting spark and fuel but RPM will not come off the ignition. Soon as I release the starter sw it dies.

This one has the large, pink resistor wire from ignition mod. out to the split to the coil and starter.

How do you change/repair the wire or do you replace it with a ceramic resistor? Anyone help me with this?

UF

 

Boy does this go back a bit!
What you can do if you don't have a meter to verify your theory is run a jumper wire from any battery plus supply to the + term of the coil and start the engine. If it stays running your right about the wire from the ign switch to the coil. The only thing is, you will have to remove the wire from either the coil or the battery voltage supply to shut the engine off. Some models had a resistor in the wire from the ign switch to the coil, others had a coil that did not require a resistor to drop the voltage to the coil. You probably already know this.
If you have a test light available you might start at the switch and see where you lose the power by probing on different points of that pink wire. If you totally bypass the resistor it will most likely burn up the contact points if that is the type ign still on the vehicle. I don't remember what the resistance rating was , but it just dropped the power to the coil from 12 volts down to 6 volts. You are correct about the resistor being ceramic if that is what you choose to replace it. I will check and try to get back to you with that info unless someone else gets it for you first.

From what I was able to determine the resistance rating is supposed to be in the range of 1.30 to 1.40 OHMS. It would be a good idea to get a ceramic resistor that you could mount to the firewall for it to have somplace for it to dissipate the heat. Some early Chrysler products also used a ballast resistor mounted to the firewall.

 

Hanky

Thanks a bunch.
I had to put a hot wire from bat to coil to even get it to fire. I cid the wire from gin to coil and it is a weak lite at best and will not make it fire. Have to remove the hot wire from bat fairly quick as coil gets so hot you can't touch it.

While engaging the starter the eng tries to run but will not come off the rate of RPM provided by starter.

Never backfired just will not catch and run.

It was running perfectly and began braking down on way to town and just like it ran out of gas, finally just quit no matter how I pumped throttle.

Getting good fuel supply to carb, new carb 2 bbl holley, new fuel pump.new coil, new points, new starter cal, new ign sw.

I was not sure how to change the pink resistor wire or should I bypass it and put in the ceramic and wire it from ign sw to coil and starter solenoid.

 

If you have the right coil, it should start if you run a wire from battery to coil + terminal. unless there is a different problem. The coil might get warm when you bypass the resistor for a few moments, but should not get HOT unless the coil is shorted internally or the points are not opening with the proper gap which for a 6 is about.020 and for an 8 is .015 " set with the point rubbing block on the hi point of the dist cam.

 

will check coil again later today and ck gap but am sure the gap is OK

UF