Blown motor
#1
11-23-2018, 06:00 PM
Blown motor
I'm checking to see if my 6.8 V10 is blown, I pulled all the spark plugs and am wondering how hard should the compression be? Should it be easy to turn? Because it's really hard to get this one to turn, and when I go counter clockwise the bolt loosens. I noticed the new plugs I put in looked wet with a little rust on them. The starter is fine, battery is at full charge, help please , I don't know what I'm doing. Thanks in advance
#2
11-24-2018, 08:55 AM
If the balancer bolt is coming loose, I’d say it’s bound up a bit.
With the plugs out and a decent bar/socket on its nose, it should rotate over fairly easy with a moderate pull. Have you taken an oil sample or cut the filter open? Sometimes a sample check wil reveal base engine debris and/or failures..
Any coolant loss etc?
Plugs out, starter won’t spin the engine over?
With the plugs out and a decent bar/socket on its nose, it should rotate over fairly easy with a moderate pull. Have you taken an oil sample or cut the filter open? Sometimes a sample check wil reveal base engine debris and/or failures..
Any coolant loss etc?
Plugs out, starter won’t spin the engine over?
#3
11-24-2018, 09:17 PM
If the balancer bolt is coming loose, I’d say it’s bound up a bit.
With the plugs out and a decent bar/socket on its nose, it should rotate over fairly easy with a moderate pull. Have you taken an oil sample or cut the filter open? Sometimes a sample check wil reveal base engine debris and/or failures..
Any coolant loss etc?
Plugs out, starter won’t spin the engine over?
With the plugs out and a decent bar/socket on its nose, it should rotate over fairly easy with a moderate pull. Have you taken an oil sample or cut the filter open? Sometimes a sample check wil reveal base engine debris and/or failures..
Any coolant loss etc?
Plugs out, starter won’t spin the engine over?
Also, I put brand new plugs and coils in when I bought it. When I pulled them out to check the compression the plugs were wet and looked a little rusty. They have never been started yet. I noticed that there was rain water dripping on to the motor from somewhere. Could rain water get into the plugs and rust it to where it's hard to turn? I live in Wa it rains all day long for months. I could've sworn it was turning slowly 8 months ago.
#4
11-24-2018, 09:54 PM
Trying to turn it over, or the lack movement from the front balancer bolt may tell the story.
If it got crackling hot, better than average chance there's base engine issues. Have you taken an oil sample? Looking for coolant in the oil?
If the prior owner didn't have enough engine anti freeze/coolant, or not adequate meaning a high H20 concentration, and it sat for a long period rust in the bores could be a possibility.
Or, drag can be bottom end damage that would show up as suspended metals in the lube oil, and/or, contained within the oil filter if the damage occurred over some time..
Doubt the starter would jamb, but if your hearing it click/clunk, then its probably fine. Could remove it to be sure, but from what you've described the engine had rotation issue from the start. This was not a replacement starter, correct?
If your seeing rust on the electrode or the grounding wire, the moisture is generating within. If its on the outer hex of the plug, then possible external causes..
If it got crackling hot, better than average chance there's base engine issues. Have you taken an oil sample? Looking for coolant in the oil?
If the prior owner didn't have enough engine anti freeze/coolant, or not adequate meaning a high H20 concentration, and it sat for a long period rust in the bores could be a possibility.
Or, drag can be bottom end damage that would show up as suspended metals in the lube oil, and/or, contained within the oil filter if the damage occurred over some time..
Doubt the starter would jamb, but if your hearing it click/clunk, then its probably fine. Could remove it to be sure, but from what you've described the engine had rotation issue from the start. This was not a replacement starter, correct?
If your seeing rust on the electrode or the grounding wire, the moisture is generating within. If its on the outer hex of the plug, then possible external causes..
#5
11-24-2018, 10:40 PM
Won't turn over
There wasn't any coolant , and it sat for 2 years the oil looked great but it had way too much oil in it about an inch or more pass the full mark. If the motor is blown I'm going to pull it, is it difficult ? Thanks for all your advice, I'm learning a lot
#6
11-25-2018, 09:44 AM
Sounds like there was some coolant in the oil mix to raise the level.
When the plugs were out, did you use any lube injected in the cylinders prior to trying rotation?
So,, oil and filter was recently changed? If not, take an oil sample and cut the filter open for inspection, If the filter contains concentrations of metal debris,, it’s done.
Meaning, high concentrations of oil debris may indicate rotating assembly damage.
An inexpensive bore scope inserted into the cylinders may help with a diagnosis too. Cheap handhelds and smartphone driven units work pretty well.
If it looks like the engine is having issues, you could pull the heads first to get an idea of the damages done. Should the rest of the engine need to come out, it’s now lighter and easier to manage. On the install, as well as the removal you’ll need some basic equipment,, stands, jack and a good engine hoist as well as a good set of basic hand tools.
I can send you the engine removal steps/illustration for the task, and you can preview the work needed to remove the engine before you decide..
When the engine is subjected to excessive heat, cylinder scoring, galling of both the cyl bores and rotating items,, cams, bearings-rods and main bearings all can cause rotation drag or locking. As could corrosion.
Engine removal is a labor intensive job, but not terribly difficult if your equipped for the job.
If the idea is a used replacement engine for a swap, better yet.
But to garage build the existing engine, much more difficult.. If the current engine to be shop remanded, then just the basic replacement of all the engine dress components prior to the reinstall..
Generally a low/lowest mileage used if it can be sourced is fairly cost affective choice.. Making ‘sure’ of it’s run quality verifying it’s mileage, compressions, possibly run checked in the donor prior to removal, and from a good warranted source so the job doesn’t have to be repeated.....
When the plugs were out, did you use any lube injected in the cylinders prior to trying rotation?
So,, oil and filter was recently changed? If not, take an oil sample and cut the filter open for inspection, If the filter contains concentrations of metal debris,, it’s done.
Meaning, high concentrations of oil debris may indicate rotating assembly damage.
An inexpensive bore scope inserted into the cylinders may help with a diagnosis too. Cheap handhelds and smartphone driven units work pretty well.
If it looks like the engine is having issues, you could pull the heads first to get an idea of the damages done. Should the rest of the engine need to come out, it’s now lighter and easier to manage. On the install, as well as the removal you’ll need some basic equipment,, stands, jack and a good engine hoist as well as a good set of basic hand tools.
I can send you the engine removal steps/illustration for the task, and you can preview the work needed to remove the engine before you decide..
When the engine is subjected to excessive heat, cylinder scoring, galling of both the cyl bores and rotating items,, cams, bearings-rods and main bearings all can cause rotation drag or locking. As could corrosion.
Engine removal is a labor intensive job, but not terribly difficult if your equipped for the job.
If the idea is a used replacement engine for a swap, better yet.
But to garage build the existing engine, much more difficult.. If the current engine to be shop remanded, then just the basic replacement of all the engine dress components prior to the reinstall..
Generally a low/lowest mileage used if it can be sourced is fairly cost affective choice.. Making ‘sure’ of it’s run quality verifying it’s mileage, compressions, possibly run checked in the donor prior to removal, and from a good warranted source so the job doesn’t have to be repeated.....
Last edited by Hayapower; 11-25-2018 at 09:47 AM.
#7
11-25-2018, 04:41 PM
Wow, I can't thank you enough for all the information and support you have given me, it's invaluable to have someone with experience to turn to. Please send me anything you can about the engine replacement, yes I plan on using a new motor if I get to that point. You have givin me a lot to work on, I will let you know how it goes.
#9
11-25-2018, 11:27 PM
03Ford strartrans bus with a v10 6.8 thanks I appreciate your time. I'm going to get started on it right away I found a 02 excursion with 70,000 on it for $2500 does that sound right ? I know nothing about engines but I'm willing thanks
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