2008 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L 4wd
#1
12-03-2019, 12:08 PM
2008 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L 4wd
I bought a 2008 Ford Escape 3.5 yrs ago, when I bought it, it had front brake caliper issues and after 3 months of dealing that we finally got it fixed. I've replaced the front sway bar links and front strut/spring assemblies. Now I have this annoying "squeak" coming from the front end and I can't seem to locate it. It is however coming from the tire/wheel area. Any ideas of what it might be???
#2
12-04-2019, 02:38 PM
These type problems can sometimes become a real challenge.
Is it possible for you to help with some addl info ?
Which side do you believe the squeak is loudest?
Some strut assys can produce a squeak that defies pinning down because the vehicle has to be moving and it is difficult to be driving and listening under the vehicle for the sound to be loudest. They do have tools just for this purpose and the "ears are attached to different areas to help locate the source.
Is it possible for you to help with some addl info ?
Which side do you believe the squeak is loudest?
Some strut assys can produce a squeak that defies pinning down because the vehicle has to be moving and it is difficult to be driving and listening under the vehicle for the sound to be loudest. They do have tools just for this purpose and the "ears are attached to different areas to help locate the source.
#3
12-14-2019, 07:55 AM
Hanky, it's the front drivers side... It's very loud if the radio is off and my drivers side window is down, I only notice the squeak/noise when I'm moving slow, like through a parking lot or down my street, which is only 15mph speed limit.
#4
12-14-2019, 08:30 AM
In a case like this, there are only so many things that are moving up there.
A good part of the time it is the brake pad dragging against the brake rotor. There can be a few reasons for this, one could be the caliper is not fully retracting, another could be the person that replaced the caliper or pads did not clean the surfaces the pads slide on. Another could be they didn't use the new stainless steel slides that should always be replaced when replacing the pads or caliper. There could always be a problem with the wheel rim, so as you can see it takes a little interest to chase down the real cause.
Whichever it is, it should not be very expensive to correct since work was recently performed and hopefully new parts were installed.
A good shop should be able to isolate the problem , and if it happens to be the wheel itself is suspect, switching the wheel with another position can determine if that is the problem. Switching wheels may require the tire pressure monitoring system will need to be updated since the wheel position has been changed..
Last but not least, the drive axle should be checked for damaged or worn parts.If that section is involved, it can cost a bit more to repair.
A good part of the time it is the brake pad dragging against the brake rotor. There can be a few reasons for this, one could be the caliper is not fully retracting, another could be the person that replaced the caliper or pads did not clean the surfaces the pads slide on. Another could be they didn't use the new stainless steel slides that should always be replaced when replacing the pads or caliper. There could always be a problem with the wheel rim, so as you can see it takes a little interest to chase down the real cause.
Whichever it is, it should not be very expensive to correct since work was recently performed and hopefully new parts were installed.
A good shop should be able to isolate the problem , and if it happens to be the wheel itself is suspect, switching the wheel with another position can determine if that is the problem. Switching wheels may require the tire pressure monitoring system will need to be updated since the wheel position has been changed..
Last but not least, the drive axle should be checked for damaged or worn parts.If that section is involved, it can cost a bit more to repair.
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