As far as the Thexton tool is concerned, for $12.00 it is better than the meter for codes and tests. The computer in your vehicle has programmed tests that are done automatically when you use it . All you do is watch the check engine lite and it tells you a lot. Gives codes and does the tests by itself . Your computer when working correctly will when using the tool, provide hard codes (faults presently), continuous codes, and it will do dynamic testing and provide "Running codes". For $12.00 you can't beat it.

 

Crap crap crap...
I put the coolant into the radiator, then tried the screwdriver across the relay. It sparked something fierce and the starter kicked. but scared me half to death so I wont be trying that again...
funny thing is that after I did that, The engine started with the clutch held and turning the key.

But I noticed small clacking sounds coming from the engine and the oil temp was 3/4 the way up only 3 seconds in.
I stopped it and then sarted filming for a second try.

the phone is not picking up on the clicking sound but you hear this high pitched whisling. I am hoping that is only the fan. I mean, Its been sitting in my shop for 5 months.
But withing 3-5 seconds it started smoking!

I am really hoping its just residual oil or maybe something from my new gasket that is smoking and not the pistons... I sooo dont want to seize the engine...
I cant imaging its that easy to break the famous inline 6 right?

If it is still over heating, then the coolant is not going from the radiator to the engine...
How can I check that? or force the coolant through the system?

Also, how can I tell if I the oil pump is working? The Temp gauge you see in the video is the oil gauge, what happens if my oil pump is burnt?

Ill wait for your advice... in the meantime I am having a beer because my hands are shaking from wondering if I just broke my 400 hr restoration project.

 

Do you think you might tell us a little of just what you did with the engine.

You never answered my question of what posts of the battery are connected to what.
The whistling is nothing to be concerned with at this time.
You had to have it right or it would not have started.
Smoke comes with the job if oil got onto anything like exhaust parts.
You can definitely smell the difference between oil cooking or an electrical problem.
A lot of the noise you hear is coming from the air pump (Emission stuff).
The oil pressure gauge in the dash should read hi when the engine is cold.\
When you turn the key on the coolant temp should be down near "C".
If the oil pump is not working bad things happen. If you did not do any work in that area and it ran fine before , it should be ok now.
Don't be discouraged things are looking up.

 

Denis ,
It would help if you were to put the air cleaner and intake hoses back on. That should get rid of the whistle and make it a lot quieter to listen for any other possible problems.
Most times any extensive engine work is done you will get some fumes coming up from parts as the oil burns off. Don;t forget that engine has been sitting and not run for X# months and it takes a while for the oil to get up to all the places .
You didn't know if it would start, IT DID.
You didn't know if it would run, IT DOES .
You did OK, From what it does so far you didn't destroy anything. If it is oil fumes , they will get less each time it runs.

 

Thanks for the encouragement.

What I have done to the engine:
1. I replaced the Exhaust Manifold with a new. Put in a new gasket. REASON: I needed to replace the Catalytic converter and the manifold studs were too rusted to remove.
2. I replaced the PCV Valve according to the maintenance schedule
3. I replaced the EGR Valve according to the maintenance schedule
4. I removed the side cover/push rod cover because it was leaking oil. So I replaced with a rubber gasket. (but thats leaking again so I will use gasket maker to weld it onto the engine block.)
5. I removed the valve cover because it was leaking oil. So I replaced with a new gasket and some gasket maker. (but I think that might be leaking a bit too... so I will use gasket maker to weld it onto the engine block.)
6. While removing the intake manifold I broke pretty much all the vacuum hoses so I replaced all of them by new polyurethane fuel/vacuum lines. (spent a lot of time making sure things connected properly, but might have ****ed things up regardless)
7. put in new Spark Plugs
8. Put new ignition cap and what ever that small plastic thing inside that rotates with timing.
9. Replaced a new thermostat.

 

Now we both know where the smoke was coming from.
Here is something to think about.
I don't know how many miles are on the engine, but sometime full synthetic motor oil pays off in the long run. If you decide to use it make sure you use the full synthetic compatible RTV gasket maker/sealer. Permatex makes it and it comes in a violet colored tube, good stuff.
There is lots of good info out there for free. In between beers make interesting reading and answers a lot of questions.
You are on your way now, so don't forget to send us pictures when done, thanks.

 

Thanks again Hanky,
I really appreciate you taking the time to help me on this!

ill send you some pics or better yet, Drop my channel sometime. I have the whole restoration on there.
https://www.youtube.com/user/bushcraftapprentice

 

I had no idea you got so involved with this vehicle. Will try to look at all your videos , and I learned a lot !! Will try to stay in touch and help if I can.

 

Yeah! Haha.
I am used to working with my hands ,but I have never worked on cars/trucks before.
I just love to dive into new skills so I got this truck.
Probably paid too much for it and got much more work than I bargained for.
But because of the amount of repairs needed, I have learned more than I have ever dreamed of with this project.

Feel free to drop a comment on videos if you spot something I could have done better or something I "should" fix even now.

ttyl!