1996 F250 power stroke diesel 7.3 2wd auto - starting voltage
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From: California
His goal is to get it fixed and sell it, he's NOT keeping the car and don't want to throw any part at it any further. It's absolutely unnecessary to beautify all the wires that's for car show. Everyone has different standard. It's also unnecessary to be a perfectionist especially on a 28 years old car and in the end replacing all cables/wires. It's not that he's trying to hide and not fix anything and let the new owner to take over. That's why fix/replace what's necessary, no more no less.
How to do it or fix it the correct way can be time consuming and costly, and it can be a sticky DIY thread.
How to do it or fix it the correct way can be time consuming and costly, and it can be a sticky DIY thread.
Last edited by heiko; Sep 17, 2024 at 12:53 PM.
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If you still get 12.60V at the battery, but the terminal at the blue arrow you get 12.58V or 12.59V that's barely acceptable, you get 12.57V or below after deep cleaning you just have to replace that bad cable. This time you know no cranking no key needed. Please note you are not even testing the resistance with ohmmeter. If the terminals at the battery are really bad and can't be cleaned, try to cut the terminal and replace just the terminal if the cable length allows you to do that. Personally I use hydraulic crimper with bunch of different terminal sizes because I make my own cables all the time. Your red cables should be either 2awg or 4awg. No car makers use thicker than 2awg unless it runs a long distance.
G101 Below:
G108 cleaned and reassembled
G107
G107 clean
G107 back on
G106 buried by metal brackets holding lines
so i got 107 108 easy but 106 is on a stud with two brackets holding hoses/ steel lines on top of it so I'd have to pull all that off to get to the ground wire
typical batt term
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Also of interest to note is the ground 101 does not come from the passenger side battery. There are two small gauge wires bk and BK/wt that connect from g108 over to g101 just going from one body bolt to another which seems weird. I'm thinking I should add a ground from the passenger battery over to g101 like the diagram shows.
Last edited by marko13; Sep 19, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,615
Hi Marko,
A suggestion, the next time you are at the auto supply store, consider picking up a tube of DIELECTRIC GREASE.
As you know the oxygen and moisture in the air all contribute to corrosion and the dielectric grease when a coating is placed over the cleaned connections will prevent future corrosion, really works.
Nice job on the cable terminal , but Ya gotta clean the washers and nuts too ,lol.
A suggestion, the next time you are at the auto supply store, consider picking up a tube of DIELECTRIC GREASE.
As you know the oxygen and moisture in the air all contribute to corrosion and the dielectric grease when a coating is placed over the cleaned connections will prevent future corrosion, really works.
Nice job on the cable terminal , but Ya gotta clean the washers and nuts too ,lol.
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I cleaned all the mating surfaces but didn't worry about the outsides of the nuts LOL
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now with all grounds and terminals hygenically sanitized I get
batt 12.51 posts and terminals
hot side of fender relay 12.51
hot side of starter solenoid 12.51
voltage drop from passenger batt positive to hot side of starter with key in start position 0.0