When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1996 F250 power stroke diesel 7.3 2wd auto - starting voltage
Ford F-250 & Ford F-350The heavier duty full sized trucks from Ford, offering bigger, more powerful engines and drivetrains for the abuse they may go through in the workplace.
Hope you stay with us and offer the benefit of your experience, thanks.
Ha ha ... I'd be happy if the damn thing would start...I'm thinking I got to get a hammer on the starter
Suggestions on what to do next?
Well the one thing from experience I'll share is if anyone's having trouble with that pesky g106 I discovered the trick to getting those brackets off that are covering up the ground wire is there's a mystery bolt up above that you can't see ..takes a half inch socket just like the one that's obvious down below it holding those metal brackets on. Expect several broken knuckles and lots of Grease chunks falling in your eyeballs LOL
A little FYI,
The permanent magnets in small starter motors are powerful , but delicate !
Be very careful with that hammer because if you crack one of those shoe magnets, the starter motor will have to be replaced.
The positive cable with magenta arrow, that's the very first cable you have to clean or replace before all the ground cables.
Look at the white arrow on above pic that doesn't look good. If the cable length allows to be shorten get a new terminal, cut down the cable and clamp the new terminal on. This ground cable you can probably live with it. Take care the positive cable in magenta arrow first. 12.60V on one end and 12.51V on the other end, and without any load, that's the one.
The positive cable with magenta arrow, that's the very first cable you have to clean or replace before all the ground cables.
Look at the white arrow on above pic that doesn't look good. If the cable length allows to be shorten get a new terminal, cut down the cable and clamp the new terminal on. This ground cable you can probably live with it. Take care the positive cable in magenta arrow first. 12.60V on one end and 12.51V on the other end, and without any load, that's the one.
Latest reading after cleaning grounds and sitting for a week or two without being on a charger is 12.51 at the battery and 12.51 at the starter
By this time doesn't it seem I should just replace the starter??
So far all the wires are tested from the battery up to the starter relay (attached to the starter motor), remember you tested the trigger wire from the fender mount starter solenoid to the starter relay (at starter motor) and you received 11.58V to 11.68V at the blue arrow? That means the starter relay also is doing its job despite the voltage drop to 11.58V which is normal (9.6V or above).
So it's time to remove the starter for a bench test.
Just use a jump start cable and connect to your battery posts. On the pic above, jump start cable (red) to arrow in yellow, black to the metal housing of the starter motor, this is to bypass the relay, just energize the motor directly.
While you are at it, you can also test the relay, this time jump start cable (red) to arrow in blue, black to the metal housing of the starter motor, another jumper wire from arrow in blue to arrow in red (the trigger wire). Check and see what you get.
You don't need to do free starter bench test at auto part stores, they are pretty much going to do the same thing but using a dc power supply instead of a car battery.
I know people say that, but a tap (and I mean tap) really is not going to ruin anything. That said, even if the tap works, a new starter at this point is the correct decision.
IMO, after the testing he has done so far, his next step is probably a new starter whether the tap worked or not.