christian my problem was my pin in my distributor sheered and my timing. my truck runs well now the only other thing i can think of that gave me similar issues was my fuel to air ratio which is adjustable on the carb. I woudnt go out and start buying stuff you dont need because i was told "you need a new carb new this new that" and i ended up not. many mechanics will diagnose it for you for cheap or free and then you can do it yourself. simple test to see if you had the same problem as me would be to take off your distributor cap and see if you can just spin the rotor because you shouldnt be able to. if it doesnt spin it can still be your timing any you might want to play with that. just loosen the bolt to the distributor and turn a little bit this way a little bit that way or look up the right way lol.

 

I got rid of that 88 F250 and now I have a 71 F100 302 3 on the tree when it is running or going down the road it doesn't want to run like it should I replaced the fuel line and put in a
couple of new filters in the line after I rebuilt the carb. now when I change gears it wants to die and not start back up

 

I hope this was the brain picker you were referring to.
Two things come to mind.
One is ,are you getting enough fuel pressure and volume to keep the engine running at low RPM.
Another question ,did you have this problem before getting into the carb?
Did you set the float level to the correct setting? Are you working with a 2bbl or 4bbl carb ?
What do you have to do to get it to start back up?

 

one it has to be cold two while it's warming up it runs like a scalded dog three after it warms up it won't idle at while stopped I have to keep my foot init or it stalls out four it is 2 bbl and the fast idle has to set or it won't run at all no matter if it's warm or cold

 

five when it stalls out i open the hood set the fast idle cam and stick a bolt in it to hold the choke open then crank it until it starts and it acts like it's flooded