No Crank Throttle Body Clicking
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 13
You might try a forced reset that consists of removing the negative battery cable from the battery, and while disconnected turn on the headlamps. This will erase any programmed faults.. Then you can reconnect the cable back onto the battery, start the engine, BUT do not touch the throttle pedal until after the engine speed settles down.
Let us know if it got rid of the starting problem..
Let us know if it got rid of the starting problem..
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,670
Can you remove one other plug,like the air intake temp,and see if you get the same result of the clicking to stop ?
This could be one way to verify if there is a problem with the power supplied to the system. It is called V ref. and should be around 5 volts.
Is there any way you might be able to measure that voltage and verify it is not being pulled down by one of the components supplied, which could be shorted internally ?
This could be one way to verify if there is a problem with the power supplied to the system. It is called V ref. and should be around 5 volts.
Is there any way you might be able to measure that voltage and verify it is not being pulled down by one of the components supplied, which could be shorted internally ?
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 13
Can you remove one other plug,like the air intake temp,and see if you get the same result of the clicking to stop ?
This could be one way to verify if there is a problem with the power supplied to the system. It is called V ref. and should be around 5 volts.
Is there any way you might be able to measure that voltage and verify it is not being pulled down by one of the components supplied, which could be shorted internally ?
This could be one way to verify if there is a problem with the power supplied to the system. It is called V ref. and should be around 5 volts.
Is there any way you might be able to measure that voltage and verify it is not being pulled down by one of the components supplied, which could be shorted internally ?
I pulled the MAF sensor and there wasn’t any change. I took the battery to a store and they said it was low. Got it charged, but no difference when starting. Still getting that clicking from the throttle with no crank. I cleared the codes via my two scan tools and still nothing. Only codes I can pull are when the throttle is disconnected and they are all throttle body related.
I can go purchase a multimeter today so i can do some more further testing. At my wits end with this, I’m thinking it has to be wiring or ECM related. Any ideas on what i should try next? Thank you!
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 13
You said you only tighten the spark plug bolt that's why I gave you the torque specs you might want to double check. And during the spark plug bolt re-tightening last night you might have pulled other wire/connector. Yes, the loose connector/wiring I mentioned I was referring to the wiring at your TPS/throttle body. So it can definitely be a wiring issue.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 1,283
From: California
You can try the pinpoint tests I attached previously at: https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford...driving-50100/ It's all about testing the TPS.
And when you have a no crank no start issue, you might want to look at the starting circuit, check pdf below, you can begin at A4. Only if you have crank no start then you look at air+fuel+spark.
And when you have a no crank no start issue, you might want to look at the starting circuit, check pdf below, you can begin at A4. Only if you have crank no start then you look at air+fuel+spark.
Last edited by heiko; Mar 22, 2025 at 04:26 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 13
Can you remove one other plug,like the air intake temp,and see if you get the same result of the clicking to stop ?
This could be one way to verify if there is a problem with the power supplied to the system. It is called V ref. and should be around 5 volts.
Is there any way you might be able to measure that voltage and verify it is not being pulled down by one of the components supplied, which could be shorted internally ?
This could be one way to verify if there is a problem with the power supplied to the system. It is called V ref. and should be around 5 volts.
Is there any way you might be able to measure that voltage and verify it is not being pulled down by one of the components supplied, which could be shorted internally ?
I’m going to try what heiko sent and update later tonight.
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