Hey Guys, I need some help/

What is going on ?
STFTB1 -2.3%

STFTB1S1 -1.6%

They are supposed to be the same sensor

Are we still getting an occasional misfire from cyls 4 &6 ? (Bank 2 problem)

When the throttle body was removed and "cleaned" did any junk get loose to go to bank 2 ?


If there was a problem with leaking injectors, the fuel trim should show that , it does not !

 

Yes same sensor but both were not shown and captured on the same screen, the xx seconds after saemetric scrolled down to the next display it changed.
Even if both are shown on the same screen display on OBDLink MX+, since STFT is real time, the percentage can be changed several times already within one second and that's normal.

 

I appreciate all the comments and I realize 2 things:
-first I’m inexperienced at scanning and exactly what it means

​​​​​​-second I realize that the engine should be hot when doing all these live data

BUT and it’s a big but, is my engine runs perfectly when warm and hot. It’s just the first 2-3 minutes of running after starting from cold.
It always starts but runs poorly like it’s chugging and sounds like it’s missing on more than one cylinder. I had the scanner plugged in when cold to try it. Got codes for MAP sensor , misfires on 2 cylinders. It will continue idle for 2-3 minutes and then smooth out and run perfectly for the rest of the day. If I raise the rpm’s in this initial stage, check engine light comes on.

I’ve replaced the ESM which has both the EGR and MAP sensor in it. (the old ESM acted the same way )

Would/could a MAP sensor cause this cold start issue I’m having. Hard to believe it could cause misfires for 2-3 minutes when cold.

I hope you all are understanding that the problem is as described above. When driving down the road when warm or hot, no misfires, no codes, and no CEL.

 

You can view live data at any time but some parameters like LTFT and STFT are meaningless and misleading when your engine is not in operating temperature. I think you have a little misunderstanding, you don't use the scanner to capture and monitor only the bad moment during the first few minutes on cold start and expect that to pinpoint the problems, and disconnect the scanner after 5 minutes.

Again, key ON engine OFF when pulling codes.
Key ON engine ON when getting live parameters, additionally, engine MUST be hot, very hot. 5 minutes driving your ECT can reach 200, but EOT should take 10 to 15 minutes to reach 200, TFT could take half hour to reach 150.

Can't give you answer yet but bad MAP sensor is possible depending on the test 2 and 3 below, I need the 3 readings I mentioned previously:
1) Make sure your car is in operating temperature, then retrieve the same live parameters you submitted previously, don't leave out LTFT-B1 this time, LTFT values are MOST important.
2) No load, rev to 2500 RPM while idling, same parameters
3) Under load, rev to 2500 RPM while driving around 30 mph, same parameters

You can just plug the scanner in and set it to live data on a cold start, and complete test no. 3 first, of course you don't take meaningful screenshots when it's not ready, then you can drive straight back home or to a parking lot of a shopping mall, and complete test no.2, then turn off engine and key ON, and complete test no.1, all 3 tests in one go. The tests will tell if you have a vacuum leak or bad MAP/MAF or bad fuel system, so that you know what approach to take rather than throwing random parts at your car. Just a single random part might cost more than the foxwell scanner itself already.

Don't forget to pull the Ford's DTCs and post them here.