The only notable progress is the cranking speed is normal. Due to diligent cleaning of connections at battery location.

Once started the not so great running is still there. It always starts but some mornings are better than others. Once in a while it will start and run good immediately. But mostly the apparent missing, puffing behind intake manifold, poor uneven idle, etc is there. Once or twice the P0106 map sensor code. BUT it always smooths out after a couple of minutes.

Tomorrow I’m going to see what affect heat has on certain sensors like MAP, MAF, CTS, etc. Gonna try using my heat gun and warm up the CTS first before starting and see if any changes to starting occurs. Wish me luck.

 

If you can come up with a piece of hose about 2-3 ft long, place one end at your ear and search around for where the puffing seems loudest. This should help isolate much better just where that puffing sound is coming from, maybe an EGR gasket ? We don't know if it is an exhaust leak or a valve leaking compression back to the intake.

When it starts, what happens if you give it more throttle ? Any smoke from the exhaust ?

I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase, but does your engine exhaust when first started seem like the engine is running very rich ?

 

One thing I'd like to add on clearing the KAM using Foxwell when you receive it. Look for a specific adaptation reset instead of KAM (last resort). Can't tell what kind of adaptation is available until the scanner is plugged into your obd port. In general you can see the following adaptations:
- TCM (transmission control module)
- Throttle Body
- Air Fuel trim
- MAF
- Injector
- PCM (KAM)
- VVT (Cam/Timing)
- ALL (except TCM)

If you see Throttle body and A/F, reset just those two first and do a little drive cycle, select KAM is the last resort. Why? When it resets more than what is needed, your PCM is told to start from scratch and no more adjustment or compensation made, which can unmask all the underlying issues, then you can have a half dozen new DTCs previously masked+adjusted+compensated by your PCM all revealing to you and be expected to spend $1000 to take on those. So look for the best possible adaptation to reset, if only KAM is available, then just select it.

 

BTW, the 4.23 volts shown in the picture is the total voltage from the 3 1.5 volt AA batteries to power my scanner When I took the picture it wasn’t plugged into the car. It usually reads battery voltage of 12.6 volts. My scanner doesn’t show the VREF from my sensors. Hopefully the FOXWELL will.

 

Thanks for clearing that up !

 

Today tried to start it and had to crank it for 20-30 seconds before it finally caught. As always ran roughly. Tried the hose to ear trick to try and isolate the puffing. Couldn’t isolate it. Finally settled into a smooth idle as always.
It did throw a #4 cylinder misfire code from this long cranking session. But none after it smoothed out.
No exhaust smoke :black or white.
On a cold start the engine block temperature is about 80 degrees. I live in NM.

My Foxwell scanner is due this week and I’ll see if if gives me any help

Do my experts here have any more ideas on next step.

 

Glad I'm not an expert.

EXPERT - One who continues to learn more and more about less and less until he knows practically everything about almost nothing at all.

Please let us know when you get your new tool and have had a chance to read and understand the instructions.

One of the things I would appreciate looking at would be what is called "The Data Stream" That is composed of the various operating parameters ( Readings) at the time the engine is running. EX: engine coolant temp, RPM, fuel trim , system voltage,oxygen sensor activity and voltage plus lots more.

 

What kind of motor oil have you been using and when was it last changed?


Ford Maps produce frequency variation , voltage readings not of much value.


You may be more correct in your suspicions than you think.
I asked about the oil because your vehicle's engine has Variable valve timing that uses motor oil controlled by a solenoid that controls cam phasers.
As you suspect, it sounds like the engine is being kept in retarded valve timing until the oil can get through to advance that valve timing.

 

I use 5W-20 semi synthetic oil and change it about every 4-5 K miles. But I don’t think the Duratec 3.0 in the Five Hundred have VVT cams.

My Foxwell 510 Elite came today. I have to download the Ford update for it. Anxious to figure that part out and see if I learn anything.

 

Before doing any reset, bring the car to operating temperature like 190 degree, while idling check all the STFT and LTFT and screenshot those readings. Same for the Ford's specific DTCs, screenshot them first even if you want to clear them.