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Transmission issue around 25-40mph

Old Nov 7, 2025 | 04:10 AM
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Default Transmission issue around 25-40mph

I think I am having torque converter lock up issues on this 2000 sable with the ax4n. Car kinda subtly lurches around 25-40 mph I think. Mostly at about 30. I am assuming this is an issue with torque converter lock up. I did a transmission flush (not pressurized just dropping pan and unplugging cooler line) and that didn't seem to help it much. I assume the tcc solenoid is in the side pan since I didn't see it in the bottom pan, but since it's a lot of work to get at I'd like to know how to properly diagnose the issue before I throw a part at it so any advice would be great. Only has 90k on it so hoping it's nothing major. Fluid was kinda between orange and pink color before I flushed it. Bottom of pan had a gray film in it, no big chunks or anything though. If I drive it at 50-60 mph no issues and then the issue seems to clear up around 30mph when I slow down from 60 (and have foot on accelerator at 30 not just coasting).
 
Old Nov 7, 2025 | 12:21 PM
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If you have a capable scanner to retrieve TFT (transmission fluid temperature) it can tell the health of your transmission when it's in operating temperature, you can tell if it's overheating or running cold.
25-40 mph is considered stop-n-go while 50-60 mph is probably expressway or freeway. Say you live close by the freeway entrance, and after 10 minutes driving, you can have ECT at 190, EOT at 170 and TFT at 140 and that's normal. Same 10 minutes on stop-n-go, ECT 190, EOT 150 and TFT 190, that's normal still because TFT temperature raises so much quicker in stop-n-go. Under normal driving condition TFT should take much longer to reach operating temperature than EOT. If you are seeing ECT 190, EOT 200 but TFT is 230, that indicates overheating problem, you will need to look for issue with transmission cooler lines or system. You don't see the problem when driving 50-60 mph because torque converter works much harder and generates more heat in stop-n-go traffic.
Note with a generic obd2 scanner you won't be able to retrieve TFT, you need OEM-specific one for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury.
 
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Last edited by heiko; Nov 7, 2025 at 05:37 PM.
Old Nov 7, 2025 | 06:56 PM
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Before getting anymore involved with an assumed trans problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, are you sure it is not an engine performance problem ?

What kind of maintenance work has been done to the engine say last 3 months ?
Some engine problems can appear as trans problems and set an unknowing person on a wild goose chase.

Do you have any way to check if any codes might be stored in the vehicle computer ?
Not all codes will cause the check engine light to come on, but it is a good way to start checking.
 
Old Nov 7, 2025 | 08:27 PM
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Well I don't have an OEM scanner. As for the engine I don't know, check engine light is on and last I checked it was a code for not enough exhaust into EGR. After some checking into I think it is because of an exhaust leak at rear of motor. I don't know I was kinda planning to put that off for a while because of how difficult it is to get to and the fact that it runs pretty good. The lurching the car has is kind a subtle jerk which to me seems like a transmission issue, if the EGR was going to cause an issue like that I wouldn't think it would be jerking, but I guess I don't know for sure.
 
Old Nov 7, 2025 | 10:32 PM
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If you plan to DIY you should invest on a handheld scanner like Foxwell NT510 Elite, which comes with one software with lifetime update and it's a one-time purchase. So you can pick Ford software, which comes with Ford + Lincoln + Mercury. If the 2000 Sable is your only car and you don't have any newer Ford/Lincoln/Mercury cars, then buying and keeping the NT510 Elite is just a waste of money. You buy it for the bidirectional support and quite a few module programming support, and perhaps some coding support. Your 2000 Sable might be a bit too old to take full advantage of the supported features not available on cars made in the early 2000s. Though you can buy it on Amazon but you don't have to keep it if you don't like it. Even if you have just the Ford software the scanner itself works fine with any other car makes as an obd2 scanner and you can still retrieve DTCs and live data and all that, you just can't retrieve other OEM-specific DTCs. If you own a Lexus then you need to buy the Toyota software (around $70) and it includes Toyota+Lexus+Scion to get the respective OEM-specific DTCs.
If you don't need bidirectional support and programming feature, and you just want to retrieve all possible Mercury's specific DTCs and Mercury's specific live data, then you should get OBDLink MX+ this is a bluetooth adapter you can plug into your obd2 port so you can view live data (even while driving) on your smart phone. This also is a one-time purchase and it covers many other car makes all for free, check this thread to find out more. Same as NT510 Elite, get it on Amazon and keep it if you like it.
Keep in mind that a handheld scanner designs to work with cars when stationary and the adapter of course view the live data while driving. You can make small investment like this or you can continue to throw random parts at your car.
 
Old Nov 8, 2025 | 08:47 AM
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Default Trans temp

So back to what you said before, too hot of trans fluid can cause issues with lock up? And if it's not an overheating issue how could I use a scanner to determine the issue. I have a blue driver obd tool would that give me the data I need to determine what the issue is.
 
Old Nov 8, 2025 | 11:56 AM
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TFT is supposed to be 165 to 225 on your car. After 30 minutes driving if your TFT is still out of this range, like below 165 or above 225, something needs to be checked.
Running cold at all time is as bad as overheating, you need to locate the transmission thermostatic valve (just the thermostat for your transmission oil cooler), check and see if it's functioning correctly.

When it comes to obd2 adapter, I would either get the cheapest $10 or the most expensive OBDLink MX+ on the market. If I want full support I expect 95 to 100%. BlueDriver at such high price to me is a complete garbage I would rather stick with a $10 cheap generic one.


TFT according to what's shown above is not available with BlueDriver. You never know until the adapter is plugged in, so why don't you plug it in and see. And while you are at it show us all the DTCs you have at this moment.
I mentioned previously TFT is to check the health of your transmission, it doesn't necessary mean the lock up is caused by overheating, let alone a transmission issue, highly questionable as hanky stated how you determined all that. When you don't know where to start, best is to check for all possible DTC your BlueDriver can retrieve, and monitor the live data, and don't throw random parts at it. Too high TFT you should get DTC in P0 codes your BlueDriver or a $10 scanner should be able to retrieve. Only when you need to get the P1 codes those are the OEM-specific codes BlueDriver may not support. If you don't get any, then move on to something else, don't worry about what temperature TFT you get when your BlueDriver reports no error on it.
 

Last edited by heiko; Nov 8, 2025 at 02:27 PM.
Old Nov 8, 2025 | 12:28 PM
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Where the temp control is located you need to remove that side cover. And ,,if you are going to do that , might as well replace the conv clutch solenoid . Still don't feel that is the problem , but have been wrong before, lol.
 
Old Nov 8, 2025 | 08:47 PM
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Well I never determined it was a lock up issue that was just my guess since there seemed to be no fluctuation in rpms and the issue occured at lock up speeds from what I researched. I could be way off in my guess, I don't know that's why I am asking here. I'll check codes tomorrow.
 
Old Nov 9, 2025 | 08:41 AM
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An intermittent misfire can have several causes, but it can produce the symptoms you describe.

Among the causes could be mostly ign related.

Lets see what the computer puts out regarding misfires and hopefully cylinder identification.
 

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