01 sport trac, 115,000 miles, sat up for 3.5 years. Purchased it last week, diagnosed bad fuel pump 2 years ago. We are second owner of vehicle, was my best friend's dad who passed away a year and a half ago. When we first diagnosed fuel pump it had a dead battery, so we charged it up and diagnosed bad fuel pump. When I acquired the vehicle last week we hooked a charger to the old battery to get windows up and down to load vehicle. Put in new fuel pump and battery and it fired right up, but had check gauge light and no fuel gauge bad sending unit, put in new fuel pump today. When we jumped battery with charger radio was on and working, I turned the radio off. Now we have no radio, no blower fan, no back window, and no cruise working. I have replaced every fuse. Can someone offer some suggestions to my non working issues? Everything else works as it should.

 

You said no radio no fan no window no cruise, when engine was running or not?
Engine off key out, get a voltmeter and measure your battery voltage, what reading you get?
Cold start engine what voltage reading during cranking?
Engine running idling, what voltage reading?

 

From what I can tell I am getting power to the back window switch, and the radio. Haven't tested the fan for power at switch. Power at the radio and back window is 12.28 volts with vehicle running.

 

If you get 12.28 volt when your vehicle is running, you will need to look at your charging system. It can be bad wiring or voltage regulator or the brushes or bad alternator itself.
What's the 8th character of your VIN, K or E?

 

E. 12.28 volts are at the radio plug and off the back of the back window switch. I will check the charging system tomorrow. I am in Alabama and it's very humid here, so moisture could have got the alternator while sitting for over 3 years. Thanks for your help. I'll try or check anything, so open to all the info and suggestions you offer.

 

All 4 driver and passenger windows work. Just wanted to put that out there.

 

Test your ground first.
1) Check resistance ohm meter black lead to battery negative post and red lead to engine block, how many ohm?
2) Check resistance ohm meter black lead to battery negative post and red lead to alternator housing, how many ohm?

Run the test below.


Don't care what electronics are working and what's not. When you have a problem with your charging system plus a bad battery, everything can work intermittently or not working when it's supposed to. What battery charger, what brand and model you have? Anyhow full charge your battery overnight then answer the 2 questions I asked you in my very first post, you only replied 1st and 4th.
At 12.28V it's way too low, doesn't matter engine is running or off. When engine is running you need to get at least 13.5V (after the voltage drop) when you check elsewhere other than your battery posts.

 

Thank you Heiko, I have someone better with electrical than me coming over this evening and we will check all the suggestions and I will get back with the numbers from the test and post them here.

 

I had my alternator tested. 14.7 volts no load 14.2 volts under load. Waiting on my father in law to get here and help me I did a lil testing myself. I am not getting power on either side of fuse 28. Do you know what relay fuse 28 feeds from

 

Below diagram is the charging system you might want to check. You know when your engine is running, you get the voltage is output from the alternator, the battery itself is pretty much a voltage pass-thru device. For instance, you can insert a usb charger w/ voltage display into your cigar lighter port, you get the same 13.5V+ (minus the voltage drop, perhaps 0.1V difference of the length of the wire away from your battery, the longer the length the higher resistance, higher voltage drop). Even if you use a voltmeter to check on the voltage at your taillight while engine is running, you should get very close voltage (minus voltage drop) measured from battery posts. Under 13V when engine is running is not acceptable. If your alternator tested fine you will need to look into the wiring problems.
12.28V, even as resting voltage is pretty low, yet sufficient to start up the engine.
That's why to isolate the issue, you should make sure your battery is fully charge, doesn't matter if it doesn't hold a charge at 12.75V and drops down to 12.4V. If you have noco genius charger: 1) full charge it, 2) remove the cable clips, 3) (if flooded type) remove the battery caps and check the water level and make sure it's good, 4) run noco repair mode (usually 4 hours), 5) when repair stops, switch it back to 12V charge mode for another hour. If you have ctek, do the same steps except in step 4 ctek uses recond mode.




Diagrams-ALL index page above.
Locations-All index page below.


Never forget to check all the ground first, often can save many hours.
Check your instrument cluster, make sure all bulbs prove out correctly. Key in ON position you should see: red brake light, yellow ABS, yellow CEL and illumination should go away BEFORE or AFTER the key is in START position.