Hello,

91 F250 5.8L

I just took off my old egr and went to replace it with a new tube. Mine was completely broken. The new tube says it's specifically for my truck, but doesn't fit. If I screw it into the exhaust manifold it's too tall and the egr can't line up with the bolts. It's just a little too tall.

Am I missing some kind of trick to get these things to fit, or do I just have a bad part?

I replaced the screw that goes directly into the manifold, that then put the slip nut with the pipe onto that.

The only thing I can think of is that maybe I installed something incorrectly(I don't know what I could have), or the slip nut that goes into the egr has to be tightened so that the bottom of the egr is pushed into the tube somehow(breaking into it).

Any advice?

 

The first thing that always comes to mind is ,Where did you get the part?

We ask this because some , not all, aftermarket manufacturers will market a "fits all" that doesn't !

Also , will it work if you install it on the EGR valve with the valve removed then reassembled?

 

Thanks for the reply.

I went to the store today and picked up a new tube. It fits... So I'm pretty sure the one I ordered online wasn't good. Price difference was pretty pig also. From the store it was $50. The online one was $23.

To answer the question above. It didn't work any way I tried to install it, and I tried both ways. It just sat too tall and didn't let the valve line up with the holes.

Now I have another problem. After installing the new egr that was bought in the same kit as the bad tube, the truck is running horribly. It idles rough, but more importantly after accelerating the engine will just die. I can actually get pretty far, but then accelerate hard, and on deceleration the engine will just turn off. It will also stutter when going straight at a constant acceleration. It won't die at idle though.

Could this be caused by a bad valve? I'm thinking that maybe the valve that came in the kit doesn't close properly. That would cause trouble when it opens during acceleration and then doesn't close when I decelerate.

The only change I did was change the tube, valve, and position sensor (I tried the old position sensor on the new valve with no luck).

What do you think?

 

I'm starting to think I got ripped off with bad parts....

I paid $103 for the tube and valve off of eBay.

Looking at prices from local auto parts stores it looks like the valve it's self should be found $90 and the tube should be $50.

Maybe everything is just subpar? I was reading up on vacuum leak symptoms from a bad egr, and it seems to match up with what I'm seeing.

 

It sure sounds like an EGR problem. One way you can confirm this is to remove the valve and place something that will not burn over the holes and reinstall the valve. That way it should withstand the high exhaust temp and also block any air from going into the intake. If it gets rid of the problem you have proved the valve is defective..Also make sure the valve is not being activated by vacuum when it should not be. If it has a vacuum line going to it , just remove the line and plug it. Let us know what you find, thanks.

 

OK.

So I fixed the main problem and am now struggling with one more. New since installing a new egr.

My first big problem was solved by changing the egr valve. The one I got from eBay was garbage. I tested the way hanky recommended and determined the valve was no good. When installing the new one, it was clearly different in that I could actually feel the spring when I attached the sensor on the top. I didn't feel the spring when I installed the eBay one.

Now, no more stalling. Quick and easy start up (that was my first problem and why I wanted to change the egr in the first place), and from inside the cabe feels like a nice idle.

However, it's clearly not running right. I can hear a riddle in the cat. It's a sound I've heard before when the timing was off. I checked the timing and it's good. My next step is to inspect all of my vacuum lines. I'm wondering if I misrouted something since I was messing with the lines around the TAB when looking for vacuum leaks.

 

Is the air pump still on your vehicle and the TAB (Thermal Air Bypass) and TAD (Thermal Air Divert) valves . ? Sometimes people for whatever reason attempt to remove/disable those devices and create some problems. It was a complicated system to meet emission levels and left a lot of things to go wrong. Depending on what you have we should be able to help get it close to right.
I doubt if some of those parts are even available to get them working and maybe we can make some minor adjustments to help get it running good. Are there any vehicle inspection requirements where you reside?

 

Hello, Yes I have the TAB and TAD on the car. And unfortunately inspections are pretty stringent where I am.

I'll take a video of what Im hearing. It might help in tracking down the issue.