Kaden Tara 1992 ford f250 stalling
We checked with the timing light and top dead center got it set to 14 degrees of timing so turns out the truck needs new map sensor and Ignition control module now installed later I tried starting it started running enough to get it back into the garage so now it’s waiting for the 2 things I ordered from RockAuto are coming this Thursday so I’m going to hope that’ll be what needs .
Last edited by Kaden Tara; Mar 5, 2025 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Story update after changing the coil and distibutor .
Update on the 351W powered F250 I tried the new ECM and ICM and new map sensor and still stalling after giving the truck gas and surging after replaced those things but idles fine when parked . Since I done the fuel filter and fuel pump 2 months ago and my brother and I did coil and distibutor and checked the timing last weekend and I did the other 2 new parts today , Could there be a anything else would I need to replace or fix on my truck so the engine would run good and not stall and surge anymore ? I am just wondering if there any other good opinions of what I can add or fix to get my truck running and driving right so it would not surge or stall anymore I just hate to throw in the towel for a nice truck I had 2 years now .
Last edited by Kaden Tara; Mar 5, 2025 at 11:12 PM. Reason: I tried the new ECM and ICM and new map sensor and still stalling after giving the truck gas and surging after replaced those things but idles fine when parked
We test and do not guess.
You have not mentioned checking the throttle position sensor that is mounted on the throttle body. It could produce the symptoms you describe if it has a poor internal connection. It is easily checked with a meter that can measure resistance. Through it's position of travel the resistance should change , but be continuous with no dropout.
You have not mentioned checking the throttle position sensor that is mounted on the throttle body. It could produce the symptoms you describe if it has a poor internal connection. It is easily checked with a meter that can measure resistance. Through it's position of travel the resistance should change , but be continuous with no dropout.
I’m going to have to test with a multimeter and see if the sensor still works or not because it is the second sensor I put into the truck I did also clean
Throttle last October and the first new throttle position sensor and new gasket so far my truck has 179 635 kilometres on the odometer I had no check engine light so far beside the sensor I need to test What if the coolant or intake temperature sensor could’ve gone bad because I had not tested or replaced one those sensors since I owned the truck so I will have to test them with multimeter as well to see if those sensors are good or not
so far I did not see any rats chewing up wiring harnesses I am going to have to keep troubleshooting until it runs right and not stalling or surging anymore
Throttle last October and the first new throttle position sensor and new gasket so far my truck has 179 635 kilometres on the odometer I had no check engine light so far beside the sensor I need to test What if the coolant or intake temperature sensor could’ve gone bad because I had not tested or replaced one those sensors since I owned the truck so I will have to test them with multimeter as well to see if those sensors are good or not
so far I did not see any rats chewing up wiring harnesses I am going to have to keep troubleshooting until it runs right and not stalling or surging anymore
Last edited by Kaden Tara; Mar 6, 2025 at 09:03 AM.
I am going to ask you to try a few things. Since you already replaced the EGR valve, we won't need to clean that.
What I need you to try is; remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve, plug it and see how the engine runs, OK ?
Please get back to us with your result, thanks. You may or may not get a check eng light, but that will go out when the vacuum hose gets reconnected.
What we are looking for is false vacuum keeping the valve open when not required which can cause poor idle or stalling.
You posted a partial pix of the vacuum hose diagram. Can you post a complete pix, thanks.
What I need you to try is; remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve, plug it and see how the engine runs, OK ?
Please get back to us with your result, thanks. You may or may not get a check eng light, but that will go out when the vacuum hose gets reconnected.
What we are looking for is false vacuum keeping the valve open when not required which can cause poor idle or stalling.
You posted a partial pix of the vacuum hose diagram. Can you post a complete pix, thanks.
Last edited by hanky; Mar 7, 2025 at 10:13 AM.


