It has fuel and spark but it would stall and would not start last week when I was driving so I had to get it towed home few hours later it would start when it was cool enough I have replaced the ICM and coolant and intake temp sensors so far I have this electrical problem where it would stall and not start until it cool down to restart

 

You did check for fuel and spark ,WHEN IT WOULD NOT START, right ?

AFTER,it refuses to start, remove one or two spark plugs and tell us if they were wet or dry.

With that answer we will have some idea whereto go next, can you do that ?

 

Yes I have checked the coil connection and 2 wires It has good spark and good fuel pumps it just dies then then it won’t restart again when the engine is warm but it will restart again after cooling down ,
I had the ignition system serviced with new coil and distributor new ICM 3 weeks ago and new spark plugs 2 years ago

On top of this I am going to check spark plugs next to see if they are good or fouled and check the engine harness for damage this morning

 

Asking you to pull 2 spark plugs is to determine if fuel is or is not getting to the cyls.

If it is,we have an ign syst problem. If the plugs are dry we have a fuel supply problem .
The answers to those questions will determine where we go next.

 

I got 2 plugs pulled out this what they look like now

 

From your pictures, the plugs appear dry.

So now we know fuel is not getting to the cyls..

When the key is on, do you have power (12 volts) at the red wire going to each injector ?

 

I got each injector firing and have good fuel flowing I went to go start it up cranked up this time when the engine was cold both cylinders are firing and no check engine light
I picked up an engine harness for my truck from an another truck I am going to check to see if is good because something is gone haywire with my truck all sudden so I’m currently running 351w the ECM of the red truck the 302 because it just won’t idle after you rev it up real good with the rebuild ECM and even the remanufactured one for 351w just doesn’t cut it .

 

Last week, my brother got the new ECM in my truck turned out. The EGR was stuck so we got a new sensor vacuum stall new EGR valve with the new computer this time. It did not die after arriving, which is Great I still got the same issue drive down the road it bucks all of a sudden once it’s warmed up Sounded like it wants to die again I changed out all the parts like fuel pumps, fuel filter, ignition control, module position sensor and alternator EGR valve position sensor map sensor new ECM new plug wires and coil and distributor like a month ago and I got spark plugs done two years ago I end up cleaning the throttle body last year new temp sensors, intake add new oxygen sensor and coolant temp and i’m just trying to chase that problem where the engine wants to buck and die I once it’s warmed up

 

How much time and money you have spent thus far? It's time that you really need to get some DTCs, note them down, then clear them and drive and see which ones are coming back then let us know the codes. I have full pinpoint tests if you can get me the codes.
You have fuel pressure gauge right? You might want to check the pressure again even you have done that already. Check below.

 

I spent likely hundreds on new parts I forget to mention I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator on it as well , I am getting same egr code po334 egr closed position voltage too much even after putting the new egr valve and sensor egr vacuum solenoid valve and ecm in before I test drove the truck I have tried to clear the codes with my real good code reader with the obd1 adapter it won’t do anything even it’s connected
I am going to check fuel pressure next see if I get good results