Anyone else had this happen? The end of my automatic shifter broke off in my hand at the overdrive section.


1997 Ford E150 Explorer Conversion van, 5.4L with a E4OD RWD Transmission. This is the 2nd time it's broken at the same spot. 1st time I used 2-part epoxy and carefully masked off the areas alongside the joint. It has held for two years and suddenly as I shifted into PARK at home after work it just plopped off in my hand, AGAIN. I have a Loctite 2-part specialty adhesive made for plastic bonding that I'll try this time.
Just wondering if it's happened to anyone else, and what you did to fix it.

 

Don't fix it just buy a new one it's dirt cheap. A common reason why yours broke because your shifter is very stiff hard to shift or you are using too much force to shift, that's why while replacing the OD shifter you _SHOULD_ also replace this (check Amazon ):

Check RockAuto first when you buy multiple items.
There are plenty of DIY guides out there on how to replace those. There is one thing I'd like to point out, people tell you dropping the steering column is a must whether or not you have tilt column, which is not true. If you have low profile right-angle star driver like , then you can get the job done much quicker and easier.
Lastly, adjust and finetune it as shown below, except you don't really need to put that much weight on it:

 

Thanks Heiko for the advice and valuable input, but those bushings were replaced almost 3 years ago along with some part of the shifting assembly in the engine compartment (I'm not sure exactly what) because I couldn't get it to go into PARK. The shifter broke like the picture for the first time about a year after those things were done. It's been very smooth and easy to shift since that work was done. I just think the plastic on the shifter developed a crack at the joint where the overdrive attaches to the rest of the shifter and after all these years it finally gave up.
I've already fixed it with a special plastic bonding epoxy/adhesive that I had from my days working in a plastics shop. It will definitely last MUCH longer than the cheap two-part general epoxy I used the first time.
I was really just wondering if this is a common occurrence with Ford column shifters.
Thanks again.

 

So right now the shift lever is it tight or loose?
If you replaced the 2 bushings by yourself 3 years ago, check the following pic with 2 red arrows:



If it's loose you need to check underneath the steering column it's attached to the shifter tube to the steering column without bushing, but a bracket and same two torx bolts. Are they too loose? Tighten and torque them to 7-10nm (62-89lb/in). Remove the knee panel and its metal plate on the back first.
Anyhow the very first thing is to make sure everything is tighten to the steering column and no free play. So follow the pdf below to remove the upper + lower steering column shrouds so you can see if too much free play there while shifting the lever. If you think the 2 bushings are still good make sure to tighten to spec check pdf after step 11.
2nd thing is to get to the shifter cable and the range sensor at the tranny. You might need to find a helper to shift so you can look at the cable and its movement from underneath. Or if you are by yourself you still can remove the doghouse to see. If everything looks good, just lubricate the shifter cable joint or at the range sensor or wherever you don't feel smooth, then just glue the shift lever back or replace a new one, around $20.
A common problem on column shifter with E/F series I should say too much free play on the shift lever because of the 2 bad bushings or the 2 torx bolts underneath the steering column too loose or dropped and lost, and the indicator not lining up to the PRND21, check the shifter indicator adjustment diagram I posted earlier, there is only 1 white **** you can turn to adjust around that area.

 

It is a common problem, why ?
Just about everyone grabs that shift lever at the end when moving it and sometimes it just lets go.

If the person moving that lever just places their hand a little further in off the extreme end and grabs the entire end, I believe a lot of this problem can be prevented.

Of course there could be other mechanical problems where the shift tube rusted in those bushings and swelled causing the higher force required to move it.
If the root cause is not corrected , the problem does over time come back.
There IS a difference between a parts replacer and a good tech, lol.

 

I ordered a new stalk from fordparts.com and replaced it. Look up procedure on youtube. Medium skill job!