I don't remember if I mentioned it, but you can use 3 or 4 inch bolts that you cut the heads off and put a slot in the end and once the trans slides in a screwdriver will easily remove the temporary studs. Smooth shaft on bolts makes it a little easier to slide on.That angle has to be perfect and it should slide right in to the pilot bushing. Just think, When all this is done you can provide help to the next guy that has never done a clutch job.

 

Alright, with all the help I have received here I am in the wrap up stages of this clutch repair. I had to move the floor shift stick to get the tranny out. Having a bitch of a time getting the metal lock ring back on. It is spring loaded and the clip has two hook slots that tie onto the two posts on outside of the hole. Having a rough time describing this but you probably know what I mean. When I removed it I used a large pair of channel locks. When installing it you have to press down the spring and turn the lock ring/cap at the same time. The large pliers just slip on the ring when I try to depress the spring and twist at the same time. Any hints, tips or tricks for getting this lock ring back on. Once I get this PIA fixed all I have left is filling the fluids and adjusting the clutch travel. I did try four guide bolts in getting the tranny to seat but ended up using just three and it did help. Slid right in once I got the height right. And yes, I hope this long drawn out posting can help someone else in the future. I think I have had a question on virtually every step of this project!

 

My last post was just wishful thinking. Have not got the lock ring down yet but I tried shifting gears with out it and it will not go into gear. Have clutch adjuster almost completely extended. Tried starting engine and shifting and it still will not go. In addition I get a clicking noise coming from the clutch and can feel it thru the petal. Apparently something did not go together right. Probably going to have to start all over! Any and all comments welcome.

 

Suppose we take one thing at a time.
You should be able to get the shift lever to go into at least one gear without the engine running.
The tip of the shift lever is supposed to go in the slots on the shift rails. Make sure none of the rails is partially in some gear , the trans should be in neutral. Once you get that taken care of, some questions regarding the clutch installation.
When you assembled the disc and pressure plate on the flywheel could you have installed the disc backwards? The springs on the disc stick out more on one side than the other and some discs will say," flywheel side" on it. The side with the springs has to go into the pressure plate assy, or the clutch will not release when the pressure plate is bolted up.
Another consideration, if the trans was allowed to hang on the clutch disc while attempting installation, it could have bent the center hub of the disc some and now part of the disc is always up against the flywheel making it seem like the clutch isn't releasing.
Some or all of this may not even apply here, but is good to know.
Don't feel badly ,if we weren't taught and shown by someone we probably could have been in the same boat. There is a good possibility everything went right and some little thing is holding up the works.

 

Checked shift lever again. Had put it in neutral before I started this project and it is still in neutral as best as I can tell but it will not move from there. Tried adjusting linkage to no avail. I was very careful when I put the disc in and yes it was marked so I feel quite sure it is in right. Used a tranny jack to do this and do not feel I put any undue pressure on the shaft or disc. The TO bearing slid on the shaft quite easily when moving it forward. With the engine on I get that clicking noise and can feel it thru the clutch petal. With the engine running and I let clutch out the noise stops.It is a rotating sound so it has to do with the shaft or maybe the TO bearing? I am guessing I will end up pulling it apart again.

 

The TO brg is active anytime the clutch pedal is depressed or even slightly contacting the fingers on the pressure plate. Did you reuse the TO brg or install a new one?
Anytime a clutch assy is replaced a new TO brg is installed also.

Lets see if we can get to the bottom of the problems before taking everything apart again.

Did you take the top off the trans for any reason? Need to know this before going further.

 

I replaced both bearings along with the clutch and PP. The shift stick is the only thing I had to remove from the trans and as I said earlier I had put it in neutral before I started. The only thing I can think of is the shift fork springs holding the TO bearing to the fork seemed very weak. But once on the shaft I do not see how that would affect anything. I checked by working the fork when pushing the trans in and it seemed to move okay. Yes only as a last resort do I want to tear this thing down again.

 

With the shift lever removed, if in neutral, there will be 3 slots all in line ‘centered’ in the opening making one continuous slot across.
The Pressure plate you used was most likely a diaphragm type. Not a 3 finger Borg and Beck type, correct?
When the PP was torqued and the diaphragm then compressed, the diaphragm face should have been complete even, near flat/level.. If not, or during a trans install the input shaft impacts or bends one or more tabs, the result can be a TO bearing flutter, chirp, vibrations, possibly uneven release pressures..
If the anti rattle spring on the arm, or some are on the bearing itself, doesn't hold spring tension you may get a rattle at idle (free play adjusted) but generally no flutter felt in the peddle. With either condition, very slight pedal pressure will generally quite a spring anti rattle concern, moderate + pedal pressure applied needed to cancel the pedal flutter tends to be a diaphragm concern.. 3 finger Berg and Beck PP’s weren’t as sensitive to bearing mating noises or flutter..

 

Yes the 3 slots are all in line. The shift stick end is shaped so it would only go in if the slot was in line\open. I can depress the lock ring spring nearly enough to get the lock ring in place but getting even pressure is hard because it is slightly under the dash so getting straight down pressure is difficult. Would not having the lock ring in place affect anything? Do not see how but thought I would ask. Yes the pressure plate is a diaphragm type and it did tighten done even. I used a X pattern to install it.

 

We still need to determine why you ca't get it into at least one gear.
You might find it easier to remove the top of the trans so you can get the lock ring in place.
Then all you need to do is carefully set the top back on with the forks indexed to the right place of the gears. Sometimes it's easier to install the top than to fight with the stick alone where you can't get into a good position to assemble it.
Also , with the top off you should be able to move the shift rails with the shift lever.
If you can't, then there is a different problem. lets wait and see what you get when you decide what you want to try.