Ok, I will do that and see if that helps. I will have to step back for awhile due to back problems. I may have jumped back into this too soon. I very much appreciate you staying with me on this.

 

I do not know why my last post is not here. I had to take a break due to back problems.
But now I have followed thru and the lock ring on the stick is in place. Did not not make any difference. Still cannot shift out of neutral. I removed the clutch adjuster and the dust boot so I could look into the bell housing to make sure the TO bearing was in place and it is. Just using the clutch fork I can only get 2 maybe 3 inches of movement. It feels like more when using the pedal.
When the clutch was replaced last time the mechanic indicated he could not find a 10 inch so he used an 11 inch. That required different bolts for the pressure plate but that was the only difference I saw. Chilton indicates the 10 inch version is factory and that is what I used. Do not know if that makes any difference but I cannot see how.
Frustration is beginning to set in. I took my time and made sure I followed instructions to the letter and now this. I cannot see anyway to get away from pulling it apart again unless you guys can suggest anything more.

 

As I stated earlier, you should be able to shift into one or more gears motor off without the clutch.
There is an internal problem inside the trans and the one way to find it is to remove the top cover with the shift stick and the shift forks. One or more have to be out of place or there is a problem with the shift rail interlocks. You will be able to see it right away because with that cover removed and the forks visible you will be able to move the stick and the forks will move depending on which position you place the stick in.
It has to work here before it can work in the trans. Let us know what you find, thanks.
Make sure on assembly that all gears in the trans and shift forks are in neutral and the forks and cover will easily go into place.

 

Ok, will post back once I can get it done>

 

 

What do I look for?

 

 

First, You should now be able to move the shift lever and move any one of the 3 shift rails depending on where you position the shift lever. You should be able to move all 3 rails , but only one at a time. Can you do this?
In looking at the upper pix , it appears the shift fork is upside down. The slots in that larger shift fork are supposed to drop onto the center of the forward synchronizer assy. which provides the last 2 higher gears. That is how I see the pix . Has anyone been in that shift housing and changed anything?

 

Unless the last guy who did the clutch messed with it I do not know of anything changed. It shifted ok before I started on this. Clamped down on a bench I can get the shift stick into. I think, all 4 gears. Remember a novice so I do not know what or where the "forward synchronizer assy" is or what it looks like.

 

It's like an optical illusion, but the shift forks are OK.
The R/S of pix 1 with the shift rails goes over the rear of the trans.The fork goes into the slot just behind the largest gear.
The other larger fork has a slot in each end and that slot goes over the center ring of the assembly just adjacent to the smallest gear (input gear). The assembly is called a synchronizer. That allows you to shift into the highest and next highest gear with out gear clash.
Since you can now shift the lever to just about any gear , it confirms the shift tower is OK. Carefully insert the forks , one over the center of the synchronizer and the other fork in the slot near the rear and the top of the tower should drop right into place as long as the slots and forks are lined up.. Then install at least 2 bolts to hold the tower down and try shifting the lever now. You should be able to get it to go into at least one or two gear positions. Be careful not to damage the gasket between the trans and the tower assy. Let us know if you are successful up to this point.