If you would,
Please let us know which path you decide to follow.

Most folks don't always have the pleasure of buying diagnostic /test equip.for a one time problem. It can be considered an investment, but if only needed once or twice a year, there may be other less expensive ways to get the problem corrected. Thanks.

 

I’m determined to fix this as it’s my daily driver. Last few days it started right up from cold and ran good.. Today it tried to start, finally did so turned it off since it was running poorly with the puffing behind the intake plenum. Tried to start it again and had to crank it for 10-15 seconds and started .. Felt like it was flooded. Drove it and all was ok.

It seem like the faster it cranks, the easier it starts and runs good. When it cranks slower, it runs and idles worse at startup. Then smooths out after a minute or two.

I’ve ordered the Foxwell NT510 Elite for Ford thinking I or it may be able to talk with my car’s computer somewhat. Just have to figure that part out. I’m 80,years old and it’s going to be an interesting experience. The $140 price tag is doable and I might learn something.

 

Before you can get any worthwhile results, the slow cranking speed needs to be corrected .
If it is causing a ( POWER LOSS./ VOLTAGE DROP ) when attempting to start, all readings can be affected and send one on a wild goose chase.
Don't know if your new scan tool will tell you that.

It has been over a month now and we are no further then that 1st day. WHY ??

 

May 6, Update: Haven’t received my Foxwell scanner yet, but the cold starting issue remains. Today it started and runs, as before, like it’s missing.. Can smell unburned fuel

While it’s running poorly, I push the gas pedal and the engine tries to increase speed It will but struggles. Quickly pushing the pedal has little or no effect on engine speed.

As before after poorly running for a few minutes it smoothes out and everything is normal, with good throttle response..

No check engine light or codes.. Probably does run long enough poorly to throw a code.—-my quess

 

Started this morning and after a minute while idling, it threw a code. P0106 MAP sensor

Earlier in this saga the same code appeared and I changed the EGR valve which on this engine has the MAP sensor as part of the EGR valve (ESM).

Maybe a bad new ESM valve assembly??

Would a bad MAP sensor cause my engine to run poorly like this immediately upon startup from cold?

Or should I remove the PCM and have it checked out by someone.

 

This is how I see it.
First that 4 volt number,,,, nothing should read that number !

Find out why , that number should read at least 5 volts or slightly more, everything that requires electrical power cannot function as it should


Your PCM is most likely OK, but cannot do it's job due to insufficient power . If you don't want to or cannot , have a good shop find out why there is not adequate power available. . The slow cranking problem is very likely due to corroded battery or cable problems. Voltage drop testing can verify just where that problem is !!

Something of which you should be aware, codes do not tell you what is defective, they only provide direction as to where to start checking !!
Parts replacers are a dime a dozen, and sometimes Benny gets the Bear and sometimes the Bear gets Benny ..

 

Check my Post # 23 above. It says "VREF voltage should be between 4.0 and 6.0 Volts." If VREF was displayed on his scanner.

Sometime one DTC leads to another one, so what's the other DTC beside P0106, both could be related.
Check the freeze frame data on both, at what mileage occurance, at what RPM.
I am curious what other hidden (Ford's specific) DTCs you have, could be 10+, again you need Foxwell NT510 Elite or OBDLink MX+ to retrieve those.

OBDLink MX+: use it to retrieve all DTCs and view all live data on your phone, you can't use this to fix anything.
Foxwell NT510 Elite: use it to retrieve all DTCs and view all live data on the handheld scan tool, and difficult to navigate (compare to OBDLink MX+), since there is no graphical display like MX+, it's not wise to use this to read live data. But the bi-directional and active test and adaptation resets are capable to reset and fix something MX+ can't do, you can still do some programming and coding, especially on 2007 or older vehicles, of course not on 1990s vehicles. So both MX+ and NT510 Elite should work together and you need to get both. I should say MX+ is a must have for everyone, NT510 Elite probably not, unless you know what to look for and have experience on another scanners.

Don't worry about I/M readiness everytime you disconnect the battery or clear your KAM it gets reset, and EVAP is always the very last monitor to be ready.

You said you replaced the ESM with a new one, have you programmed it and done it correctly? 7 or 8 out of 10 modules need to be programmed or else it might work partially or not working at all.
Foxwell NT510 Elite probably can't program ESM, you need Forscan for windows and vlinker FS, if ESM needs to be programmed at all, that's something you need to find out.

 

Here’s the graph of MAP output from my engine when warm Seems ok



Can’t get a graph when cold because it warms up when running.
Didn’t realize I had to program the EGR/MAP sensor valve. I the thought the PCM would do it automatically.
Not sure about the 4 volt thing you mentioned.
I’ll check to see what my VREF is. Hopefully 5 volts.

 

Google Ai said no need but you can't fully count on that, so let's focus on something else in the meantime until you receive the Foxwell, then you can clear the KAM.
You do need to clear the DTC P0106 but you don't need to complete the drive cycle to get EVAP monitor to be ready, your EGR monitor has already passed, but you do need to drive a little bit for ESM to relearn, then the P0106 might go away by itself.
Never forget the current issues not have anything to do with P0106, it could be some other hidden DTCs.

Just like a bad alternator, it can trigger a dozen other DTCs like ABS, traction control, BCM and many others, when a new alternator is replaced, clear those DTCs they won't come back anymore.

 

That 4.2 volt reading may be in the 4-6 volt range,but it is trying to tell you something is not right.

It should be higher and it does tell us there is insufficient power available to the system and therefore cannot function as designed.