I did a compression test tonight... spec = 164-200psi.
Dry: cylinder 1=160psi, 2=160, 3=155, 4=0
Wet: cylinder1=200psi, 2=175, 3=160, 4=0

While testing #4 I opened oil refill cap and held hand over opening and air was noticeably pushing past fingers/gloves.

I need to do a leak down test with cylinder#4 at TDC (TDC ensures valves at closed position). Depending on where the air leaks, I will call around and see the cost of repair. If I understand right the following leaks match up with the listed problem:
1 - air out oil fill or dipstick = leak past piston rings to bottom of engine
2 - air into coolant (bubbles) = head gasket broken =
3 - air out throttle body or air intake, or out exhaust = leak past valves = broken valves

 

You did all the right things in checking it out. Now I believe you know the answer and I would suspect you have either a cracked piston or parts of the piston are missing from the piston itself.

 

oldblue99: your options that make financial sense are: get a used engine. Or get a used car and change your forum id to "newtomesilver05" or something like that.

I think you did a great job for a newbee; not only in diagnosing the problem but in communicating about it.


I wish you well.

 

Leak down test results: I only tested cylinder #1 & #4 since they are both up at the same time (I tested with piston at top at exhaust & compression cycle). #1 had a little leaking out exhaust, but #4 leaked air out the exhaust and throttle body without restriction (are the valves completely gone?)... it flowed out at high pressure. Air also leaked out the oil fill opening (piston ring &/or piston damage). While I cranked the piston through it's cycles (with out spark plug or compression tester in) my son saw the piston top ROTATING up/down and told me he thought he saw a ball in there. I had him take a video while I cranked slowly and sure enough the piston top was rotating or there was something loose in there rolling around. It's definitely messed up. I'd like to take it apart to see what damage was done, but it's very low on my priority list right now.

The last 2 weeks (between compression test and leak down test) I researched cars, car buying, and how to haggle a good/fair price. We were deciding between a Dodge Durango, Honda Pilot, and Toyota Highlander to handle a family and can take us camping to remote areas while allowing for hauling a trailer or just stuffing it with lumber and construction stuff for the once in a while home projects (like the deck I just finished). The Pilot won and we got a 2008 with ~64K miles on it from a no hassle/haggle super store. We got it on a Friday and on the following Monday the pilot started giving us a CEL and miss fire codes for all 6 cylinders. Checking the owners manual revealed the CEL section was circled in pen by the previous owners, so the dealer is paying for anything to get it fixed. The nightmare continues, but we have dealer help and at least there is no performance issue and it runs fine... must be sensors &/or computer. We already had the dealer check plugs, coils, battery, etc and also perform a Honda TSB 09-090 which adjusts valves & software upgrade, but it still gives us codes. The dealer will check it out on Monday again.

Looks like I'll start a thread on a Honda forum and close this one down. Thanks all for the timely comments and help. Old blue is no more.

 

Happy trails!

I bet the previous owner, cleared the codes just before trading the Pilot. This makes me wonder if people should put a line in the contract saying: the vehicle can be returned for full refund if the X-mas tree lights up withing 1000 miles.

 

the 2.0 SPI engine is notorious for dropped valve seats on #4 cylinder and it will show up as no compression. It is not a hard problem to fix if you can do most of the work of pulling and reinstalling the head your self. but you will have to send the head to a machine shop to have the valve seat replaced or you could replace the entire head. That is what I am doing to my 98 Escort now, but I am a mechanic so for me its no problem and I save the $400-$800 labor a reputable shop would charge. Look for my post in the Escort and general tech threads for some info.
But yeah from the other problems you have it may be better to find another car than to put any $ into this one.